We have enjoyed Argentine wines for many years, and more so in the past two months while we have been here. Since there are over 100 wineries in the Mendoza area a trip here would not be complete without a visit to some wineries.
We hire a private guide (Osvaldo) who picks us up at the apartment at 9am. Osvaldo has taken care of making reservations at three wineries in the Uco Valley. He drives through the Mendoza city traffic and soon has us on Ruta 40. After a bit he turns onto Avenida San Martin in Ugarteche. We pass by Chandon and Bogeda Catena Zapata, arriving at Bogeda Budeguer shortly after 10am. At the guardhouse Osvaldo provides information about our reservation, and the gate opens.
We are greeted by our guide, Jorgina. This is a boutique winery owned by a family who produces sugar cane in the north and has contracts to provide Coca-Cola with sugar in Argentina and Chile. The facility is top-class. When we explained to Jorgina that we are amateur wine makers she tailors the tour to us.
The vineyards around the winery received rain last week and they are waiting perhaps another week before harvesting. We discuss the netting system used to shield the vines from hail and as well as the irrigation system. As we walk through the winery we meet the winemaker, who smiles and shakes our hands. We then watch him listen for the fermentation occurring on a couple of barrels which have been pulled aside.
We hire a private guide (Osvaldo) who picks us up at the apartment at 9am. Osvaldo has taken care of making reservations at three wineries in the Uco Valley. He drives through the Mendoza city traffic and soon has us on Ruta 40. After a bit he turns onto Avenida San Martin in Ugarteche. We pass by Chandon and Bogeda Catena Zapata, arriving at Bogeda Budeguer shortly after 10am. At the guardhouse Osvaldo provides information about our reservation, and the gate opens.
We are greeted by our guide, Jorgina. This is a boutique winery owned by a family who produces sugar cane in the north and has contracts to provide Coca-Cola with sugar in Argentina and Chile. The facility is top-class. When we explained to Jorgina that we are amateur wine makers she tailors the tour to us.
The vineyards around the winery received rain last week and they are waiting perhaps another week before harvesting. We discuss the netting system used to shield the vines from hail and as well as the irrigation system. As we walk through the winery we meet the winemaker, who smiles and shakes our hands. We then watch him listen for the fermentation occurring on a couple of barrels which have been pulled aside.
Maipu did not receive rain recently, and today the winery is processing grapes from one of their vineyards in that area. All of the grapes are hand-picked, and sorted in the field. When they arrive on the crush pad they go through a conveyor belt and then a destemmer which works totally by vibration, leaving the grapes whole. Two people sort again as the grapes move along another belt to the small fermenter tanks. These tanks are moved by forklift to the tops of either the concrete or stainless steel fermentation vats. The bottoms of the small fermenter tanks are opened and the grapes fall into the vats. Very modern (and expensive).
Following our tour we have generous tastings of four of their wines: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and a Reserve Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The Reserve is wonderful and we buy a bottle, complete with a hand signed label from their winemaker.
Following our tour we have generous tastings of four of their wines: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and a Reserve Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The Reserve is wonderful and we buy a bottle, complete with a hand signed label from their winemaker.
Our next stop is Bogeda Salentein. This is a much larger commercial operation, and actually is part of a conglomerate with interests in agriculture, cattle, hospitality and winemaking. We arrive a little late and a young man quickly escorts us to catch us up with our group. Along the way he hits the highlights of the tour that we have missed. We join the group in the cave, which is also used as an entertainment venue. Later in the tour we are offered tastings of three of their wines. They are okay, but none strike as as great.
Walking the grounds after the tasting gives us a chance to see the beauty of this location. The grapes are almost ready for harvest and the tops of the mountains appear as if they are floating above the vines.
Walking the grounds after the tasting gives us a chance to see the beauty of this location. The grapes are almost ready for harvest and the tops of the mountains appear as if they are floating above the vines.
Our last stop is at a small family owned garage winery, La Azul. Osvaldo has made a reservation for their five course wine luncheon. The luncheon is served outdoors and the owner, a man in his mid-30's wearing a polo shirt, jeans and a cap is there greeting people and serving tables. He tells us that his grandfather owned a large property and when it was time for him to pass it on to his children he put five different colored papers into a hat, each corresponding to a tract of land. His mother pulled the color blue, which was the best tract for growing grapes. The irrigation system was installed and the first vines were planted in 1993. The vineyard has now been passed down to the current owner by his mother.
The first courses are served with Azul's Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Malbec, and unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon. The main course (ribeye for William and braised pork for me) is served with a Reserva Malbec-Cabernet that sees 15 months in French and American oak. Any (and all) of the wines are also offered with dessert. Throughout the meal the owner and the wait staff are right there if someone wants another glass and also to talk about the wines and winery. Wow - it is a wonderful meal and a whole lot of wine!
Between looking at the scenery William and I both catch small naps as Osvaldo drives us back to the city of Mendoza and our apartment. We're very happy we hired him!
The first courses are served with Azul's Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Malbec, and unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon. The main course (ribeye for William and braised pork for me) is served with a Reserva Malbec-Cabernet that sees 15 months in French and American oak. Any (and all) of the wines are also offered with dessert. Throughout the meal the owner and the wait staff are right there if someone wants another glass and also to talk about the wines and winery. Wow - it is a wonderful meal and a whole lot of wine!
Between looking at the scenery William and I both catch small naps as Osvaldo drives us back to the city of Mendoza and our apartment. We're very happy we hired him!
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