Blog Archives - WANDERING WITH WILLIAM

Moving Monday - To the West Coast

2/28/2017

We are now getting into the routine of packing up approximately every seven days. We are moving again, this time to the West Coast of the South Island to the town of Hokitika. Google Maps says the trip will take 5 hours 15 minutes, but we know the roadways often take longer and we will be making stops along the way. William guesses our journey will take 8-9 hours, so we leave Nelson at 9 am.

Our route today is Highway 6. We pass by the turnoff for Nelson Lakes and then are in new territory for us. About 2 hours into the journey we stop in Murchison for coffee's as well as a quiche for Anne. It's another 2 hours through Buller River Gorge and forested mountains until we arrive at Westport on the west coast, stopping for a few photo's along the way. We take a short detour to go to the Cape Foulwind Lighthouse then drive on to the Tauranga Bay Seal Colony.

60 kilometers south along Highway 6 we come to Punakaiki and the pancake rocks. It's a short stroll along well-maintained paths and viewing platforms to see the rocks and the blowholes. It is a well-needed break from driving for William. Unfortunately we are starving and like most all restaurants in New Zealand it is impossible to get anything to eat at the Pancake Rocks Cafe other than carb-intense snacks between 2:30 and 5 or 5:30pm. We give in - William has a sandwich and I have an ice cream.

It's another 80 kilometers along a winding coastal road to Hokitika. The views are inspiring. We pull into our next Bach at about 5 pm, 8 hours after we left Nelson.

After unpacking the cooler we set about trying to find a proper meal. Many of the restaurants in town are closed, either because they are breakfast-lunch cafe's or because it is Monday. TripAdvisor gives the Royal Mail Hotel 4 1/4 stars (out of 5) and their online menu shows enough protein-rich entrees to catch our interest.

A 12 minute drive out in the country brings us to the Royal Mail Hotel restaurant in Woodstock. We're a little unsure given the exterior, but decide to give it a try. The interior is like a cross between the pub in Walkabout Creek in the movie Crocodile Dundee and an Up North Wisconsin supper club. We order at the bar then grab a table. While we wait, we get a chance to enjoy the locals. The food arrives and it is delicious. I have a smoked pork chop and William goes for the ribeye. This was an excellent choice.

Sunday - Vines, Wine, Food & Music

2/28/2017

After a lazy start to Sunday we return to the vines of Moutere area, his time to Moutere Hills Vineyard. This is a boutique winery and cafe with music on Sunday afternoons. We arrive a little before 1 pm and everything is in full swing. The owner, Rusty Rayne is at the bar and provides me with tastes of a couple of their wines before I decide on a glass of their Chenin Blanc - Chardonnay blend. They have local craft beer on tap, and William selects an IPA.

We settle into table 10, one of the few remaining. The band is setup at the edge of the lawn area, and they are playing American tunes. It is always interesting how US music has permeated throughout the world. We have heard it in Kenya, India, Egypt, Morocco, Peru, Iceland and other countries.

We enjoy music and the beverages for a while then put an order in for their Moutere Hills Platter for a snack. While we wait we watch the children having fun on the lawn and the old tractor. Our platter arrives and it's huge - with a variety of freshly baked breads, three spreads, olives, smoked salmon, cheeses, salami's and fresh fruit. There's also four "salmon wings" which I think are BBQ'd salmon fins with about 1 1/2 oz of salmon flesh (and are delicious). So much for having just a snack!

Nelson Market and Ngarua Caves

2/28/2017

Saturday morning we shower quickly then drive into the Nelson Market. The market has a wide assortment of produce, cottage-industry products, food trucks and entertainers. We pick up fresh fruits, vegetables and cheeses from the local

producers. There's a gentleman selling a natural insect repellent that William engages in conversation for 10-15 minutes, then is convinced we should give it a try (it turns out to smell and feel similar to products we purchased in Panama that worked great). We also spend some time watching the local entertainment.

After brunch William points the car toward Takaka. Our destination is about 70 km from Nelson - Marble Mountain and the Ngarua Caves, where we are booked on the 1 pm tour. Much of the route is the same as to Kaieriteri, but today the tide is in so the shoreline looks different. Also, this time we climb further into the mountains and as a result have some wonderful views.

We arrive at Ngarua Caves and see a much different landscape- it feels like it is out of The Lord of the Rings. We are joined in our tour by eight other people (including some young children). The caves are very interesting, filled with stalactites. In addition there are displays of the skeletons of Moa birds which fell into the caves. When we arrive at the end of our 45 minute tour the exit is a bit of a surprise. It is a narrow passage to the cave ceiling with a permanent metal ladder with 25 rungs. At some points William's shoulders have just a few inches on each side to make their way out!

On our return to Nelson we take the Old Montere Highway and wind through orchards and vineyards. We stop at Neudorf Winery for a tasting as it is one that review sites comment is a "can't miss". I think it's pretty and the wines are okay. Closer to Nelson we stop at a boutique winery, Rimu Grove. Their white wines have a little more residual sugar for my taste, but their Pinot Noir is drier and delicious. We buy a bottle for later.

Back to hiking!

2/24/2017

The Cable Bay Trail is highly recommended by the travel sites. There are some comments about steep areas, but it doesn't sound too bad. Since it is only a 25 minute drive from our bach, we need to check it out.

We take Highway 6 for 10 minutes then turn off on Cable Bay Road. It twists and turns and becomes more and more narrow - not quite Isle of Mull single lane, but cars passing come within less than a foot of each other. After 20 minutes we come to almost the end of the road and the start of Cable Bay Trail. Across the way is Pepin Island, which is connected to the mainland by the now single lane Cable Bay Road. The start of the trail includes 20 long stairs, then we are into a farmer's field. We stop and take in the view of the bay. The trail gets steeper - luckily every once in a while there is a bench. After a bit we come across a herd of cows who have chosen to graze and rest directly on the trail. We slowly walk around and through them, avoiding cow pies as we go.

The trail becomes even more steep. Anne trudges on while William enjoys the views from a bench. After a short while we throw in the towel and start back down the trail. This is a trail that should be done by someone with more stamina and/or on a cloudy day when the sun is not beating down. Nonetheless, the scenery has been spectacular.

We stop at the Cable Bay Cafe for a coffee, the only restaurant within 30 kilometers. It's cute with an interesting laid-back vibe.

Then we are off to explore the area around the Port of Nelson. There's a yacht in port, and I let William know that unfortunately the owners were not willing to sell it to me for his upcoming birthday. After enjoying the scenes we stop for a cool beverage at the Boat Shed restaurant. It may be the official penguin crossing sign in front of the restaurant that draws us in.

A Nelson Thursday

2/24/2017

It's time to do laundry and give William a break from winding roads, so we stay local in Nelson. After putting the wash on the line we head out. William parks the car in downtown Nelson and we explore the area. First stop is the Queen's Gardens. The gardens were inspired by an intimate Victorian garden, and were formally opened in 1892 to celebrate the jubilee of Queen Victoria.

We then take a slow 45 minute stroll through the Nelson Museum. One of my favorite exhibits is about Bridget Goodwin, a.k.a "Biddy of the Buller". She was born between 1802 and 1827 and was a gold miner who worked mostly in the Buller River. She was reported to be only 1.2 meters (4 foot) tall. She worked in the river herself and directed the work of her two male companions. She was an enthusiast pipe smoker, and had a well-developed taste for alcohol. She died in 1899. The cause of death was not reported. Lol.

As we walk back along Trafalgar Street we happen across a man playing the community piano, with a young woman next to him sketching the scene. What fun!

We climb up to Nelson Christ Church Cathedral, an imposing structure that can be seen from most of Nelson proper. The east transept contains the Great Rose (stained glass) Window. The west transept is host to the organ, which was first commissioned in 1871 and rebuilt in 1968. Overall, it is a pretty cathedral.

A light late lunch is in order, so we stop by The Vic Mac's Brewbar for beverages and to split a burger. Then it is home to the awaiting laundry.

Nelson Lakes National Park

2/24/2017

Nelson Lakes National Park is our destination on a bright Wednesday. We drive approximately 45 kilometers along Highway 6 then turn left on Wai-Iti Valley Road. The winding drive takes us through the Kalinui Forest then Golden Downs Forest. No one is following us for the first 20 minutes, then just as William comments that the road would be great for bikers a group of three motorcyclists appear in the rear view mirror as if from no where. They buzz by us on a somewhat "straight" stretch of road.

The road follows a valley floor, with forests and some ranches along the way. One rancher has diversified - he is raising cows, sheep, deer and elk. Other ranchers are selling some of their by-product - we see signs selling "sheep shit". It reminds us of the "pony poo" signs we saw on the ride from Rotorua to Hawke's Bay. (We are still hoping to see signs for "horse hockey" and "cow crap" in some of our future drives in New Zealand). Along the way Mount Tapuae-o-Uenuku, elevation 2,885 meters (9,465 feet), looms off in the distance.

We stop for coffee in St. Arnaud, the last city before the park. The Alpine Lodge Cafe is lovely, with beach chairs as well as tables to enjoy the scenery.

At the park visitor's center we pick up a map of the area and choose to take the Peninsula Nature Walk. We walk down to Lake Rotoiti and are greeted by a gorgeous alpine scene. There are black swans and ducks swimming near the beach. Our 90 minute bush walk takes us along the lake where we are treated to expansive views and through the brush with it's interesting mushrooms and moss.

This evening as we are sitting on the front porch a gorgeous sunset develops. The perfect ending to a day enjoying pristine nature.

Kaiteriteri Bound

2/23/2017

We are excited to start exploring the beauty of the South Island, so on Tuesday morning after breakfast William points the car toward the town of Kaiteriteri, a gateway town to Abel Tasman National Park. We pass vineyards, orchards, ranches and shoreline between the small towns on our route.

When we arrive in Kaiteriteri we find a beautiful beach. In addition to the swimmers/sunbathers people are kayaking and some boaters have anchored for lunch. We enjoy the beach for a little while then decide to continue driving toward the park. The road twists and turns through the forested mountainside, getting so narrow that I could touch the cliffs out the passenger window if I wanted. The pine trees give a wonderful scent to the air. We eventually find Sandy-Bay Road which returns us to Highway 60 below Kaiteriteri.

Heading back toward Nelson we take a slight detour in Tasman, stopping first to see the Moutere Inlet then making a stop at Kona Cliffs Winery. It's a small family run vineyard and winery producing <800 cases a year. I do a tasting while William takes some photo's. I put the wines in the "drinkable" category. I've tasted much better in our travels.

Further down the road we come upon Ruby Bay. What a difference in beaches from what we saw in Kaiteriteri. Rather than powdery sand the beach here is all smoothed rocks. We walk for a while the resume our trip back to Nelson. It's been a fun day of exploring.

The Cook Strait and on to Nelson

2/23/2017

The Cook Strait separates New Zealand's North and South Islands. We arrive at the InterIslander Ferry Terminal at 7:45am Monday for our 9am sailing. After queuing with the other cars, vans and trucks for 30 minutes William drives our rental car onto the ferry boat. We are parked on Deck 5 Mezzanine - we watch as our car and approximately 50 others are lifted up to make room below for another 50 cars.

We make our way to Deck 8 and grab a table for breakfast. At 9 am the horn of the ferry blows and we depart the Wellington dock. It takes approximately 45 minutes to leave the harbor and go around the tip of Fitzroy Bay. Then we are in the strait with the South Island on the horizon. Sometimes the Cook Strait is very rough, but it is a sunny, calm day and many of the passengers remain on the top deck for the entire trip.

Soon the captain is guiding us between Arapawa Island and the South Island. It is a beautiful trip as we make our way to the ferry port in Picton. The crossing takes 3 1/2 hours. 20 minutes after docking we are in our car and driving out of the port toward Highway 1.

We pass vineyards of some famous producers, but decide to stop at Hunter's Winery and Cafe for a bite to eat. I am able to enjoy a flight of wine with my quiche, but the only non-alcoholic beverage on the menu besides coffee is a milkshake. Oh well, William gives in. The winery is family owned and I think their white wines are quite good.

Back on the road we take the third exit at the roundabout in Spring Creek onto Highway 62 then another right 20 minutes later to put ourselves on Highway 6. The scenery is inspiring. We pass through Havelock, the Greenshell Mussel capital of the world. Mmmmmm.

Around 3:30 pm we pull into the driveway of our rental apartment (bach) for the next week. We are in Atawehia, a small community less than 10 minutes from Nelson. The bach has been built as part of a home, which our landlords occupy. The bach has a decent kitchen, two bedrooms and a living space. It also has a swimming pool and deck in the backyard which we are welcomed to use! The front porch sports a small table and two chairs - enough to enjoy tea and coffee in the morning and a beverage watching the sun go down to the west of Tasman Bay.

After we are settled and have relaxed, we make the short drive into Nelson. Walking down Trafalgar street we are able to grab a table for dinner at Hopgood's. William's filet is tender and perfectly done while I have amazing pork belly with beets and plums.

Wellington Weekend

2/22/2017

We start our day Saturday with a walk to Cuba Street then over to the Pukrau National War Memorial Park. The Towering

National War Memorial is at the center of the park and also contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The Australian Memorial is in front, while the Great War Exhibition is behind. It is interesting how prevalent WWI is within the minds of New Zealanders. There are various other monuments/statues within the park.

Later in the day we decide on a light lunch at the Crab Shack restaurant along the wharf. My 500g order of green lipped mussels arrives and I am amazed at how huge they are. Oh yes, they are also tender and delicious!

Saturday evening we attend a local jazz session at the Lido Restaurant. It's a trio - sax, drums and bass, and they sound great. I pick up one of their cd's as we enjoyed the music, but mostly to support the band.

Sunday is sunny and the weather is beautiful. We walk along the waterfront, watching the people enjoying the various water sports.

Just north of Te Papa Museum we come across a farmer's market. We immediately regret having eaten breakfast before starting our walk. When we see Fritz's Wieners we cannot resist a bratwurst. Then I pick up some fresh local produce, fully knowing that I am going to have to transport it with us tomorrow to Nelson. We continue our walk to Oriental Bay and the Carter Fountain spouting in Wellington Harbor before turning back toward our apartment.

Sunday evening we dine at Bin 44 on the harbor front. The food is very good. As we are finishing our meal a rainbow appears that eventually spans the entire harbor. Unforgettable!

We have enjoyed our "city time" in Wellington.

Rainy Friday

2/22/2017

The forecast is rain for the next few days. Although we are not exactly Gene Kelly and Debbie Reynolds singing in the rain, we decide that a positive attitude towards the rain is in order.

We start the day equipped with raincoat and umbrella. First stop is the Portrait Gallery. There are approximately 60 pieces of art, centering around New Zealand artists. I'm particularly fond of Leo Bensemann's "Portraits of Rita Angus" where she is made up as Cleopatra, "Luncheon Under the Ash Tree" by Evelyn Page and Rita Angus' "Portrait of Leo" (Bensemann).

A couple of blocks away is the Wellington Museum. The first floor takes an interesting approach providing insights on events in Wellington in a timeline from the 1800's through the current day. The other floors showcase the dockside and shipping/naval history.

We leave the museum to see some other point of interest within a 3km distance. These include the bucket fountain on Cuba Street, the Opera House and the St. James Theater. Our destination is the Embassy Theater, a classic theater building which has been converted into a multi-screen movie theater. It also houses a jazz club/lounge and separate bar. The seats are comfortable as we settle in to watch the movie LaLa Land.

On our way back to our apartment we stop at Pizza Napoli, a small well-known local place. We arrive at just the right time to be escorted by the owner to a table next to the windows. The pepperoni pizza and bottle of Sangiovese is perfect as we watch the constant heavy drizzle and the people of Wellington bustling as they leave work and make their way to the bars and restaurants or to start their commute home.