Category: Antarctica - Wandering With William

Rounding Cape Horn

2/5/2018

Friday is our last day at sea. After breakfast the guest lecturer Andy gives a talk about how plants and animals survive in very cold climates.

A few minutes after 11am we are able to make out the shape of Cape Horn through the fog front of us. I head up to the bridge for a better view and to learn more.

There is a lighthouse on the tip of the island.  Eduardo, one of the Naturalists explains that Cape Horn is owned by Chile and that a family lives in the lighthouse caring for it for a one year term from November to November.

The seas immediately become more calm as we turn to the east.  It is easy to see how Cape Horn was such a milestone in the sailing days.  If the ship was able to make the turn it survived.  If not, it often went into the rocks and went down.

This evening we have the captain's cocktail party and dinner.  Luckily only the staff dresses up for the event.  There's a recap from Brent and a few of the Naturalists.  The Captain talks about our journey South and is obviously very pleased that we reached Latitude 68 degrees 41 minutes South safely with the 85 crew members and 169 passengers on this voyage.  Everyone is in a happy mood as we progress to our last wonderful dinner onboard the Nat Geo Explorer.

The Drake Passage Redux

2/5/2018

We awake on this Thursday to Brent's 7am announcement of breakfast being served. The ship is in the Drake Passage and we are being bounced around a bit.

This is considered a mild crossing but there are several guests down in their cabins suffering from sea sickness. But we are ok - I have put on a seasickness patch and William has taken Dramamine. The weather is foggy, so there is not much to see outside. At one point I go up to the Chart Room to try to capture the feel of the ship and spray on its bow.

During the day there are talks from the Naturalists, lecturers and photographers. These individuals have made this trip very special and interesting. The Excursion Director Brent Stephenson is from New Zealand and has a PhD specializing in the Gannets which we saw on our trip to NZ last year. Erika Larsen is a National Geographic photographer. After learning about what she does and the amount of time which goes into a photo shoot for the magazine I now understand why a subscription costs so much. Deirdre Mitchell is a 30-something from Scotland with 2 M.A.'s who was the curator of the South Georgia Museum. Eduardo Shaw is a naturalist and guide from Patagonia. Andrew Clarke joined the British Antarctic Survey after graduating from Cambridge and spent 40 years working in Antarctica during which he authored over 180 scientific papers. They are joined by Bud Lehnhausen, Doug Gualtieri, Katie Crafts, Jessica Farrer, Rob Edwards, Adam Britton, Alyssa Adler, Kayvon Malek, Mark Clement and Adrianne Bosworth as the extraordinary staff of Naturalists, staff and lecturers assembled for our voyage with Lindblad/Natural Geographic. In addition we have two whale researchers on board who share their knowledge.

I haven't discussed the ship's food in the blog so far, so this may be a good spot.

Breakfast is served buffet style. It has a good variety and the staff does a great job of keeping the food fresh and warm. Lunch is also served buffet style. There's always a variety of salads, vegetables, three proteins and a chef carving another protein at the end of the buffet. There are desserts as well as a cheese and fruit selection. Waiters come to the tables with smiling faces offering soup and beverages and clearing dishes as they go.

In case we get hungry between meals or just need a cappuccino or espresso, there's the Bistro. It also serves tea sandwiches and sweets from 4:00 - 5:30pm.

From 6:30 to 7:30 each evening the staff does a Recap in the Lounge. They highlight some of the activities of the day and in 10 minute segments the Naturalists provide new information or perspectives. There are beverages of choice as well as bar snacks and passed appetizers before and during Recap.

Dinners are plated. Appetizer choices and multiple entree options are on the menu. The chef varies the food and mixes in fun themes. One night we have an Argentine Asado with grilled meats including delicious lamb from South Georgia. To round out the festivities the dining room staff dons gaucho attire. On Robert Burns day a traditional Cranachan (Scottish dessert) is offered. On several evenings one of us chooses the alternate option of ribeye steak. It is well prepared wonderful Argentine meat.

On some evenings we return to the ship lounge for a night cap. William is pleasantly surprised by the large variety of single malt scotches which are available.

Whales, Whales Everywhere

2/4/2018

We had just laid down for a nap after Wednesday's lunch when Brent announces that there are Type A killer whales off the port bow. The captain slows the ship in Dallmann Bay and slowly maneuvers us near the whales. It's also lunch time for them. They have just made a kill and are feeding. We don't know what they killed, but they seem to be enjoying their meal. These wonderful whales are fascinating and stay with us for two hours.

After dinner Dan, Martha, William and I go up to the Observation Lounge. We are there for a short period when someone shouts out "whales!" Four humpback whales are playing around the ship, which is again maneuvering very slowly. They are also feeding and put on an incredible show for about an hour.

The scenery and light in the bay is also incredibly beautiful.

After a nightcap in the ship lounge we fall asleep to the rocking of the ship - we are re-entering the Drake Passage. I'm happy I applied an anti-sea sickness patch after dinner.

Port Lockroy

2/4/2018

Wednesday morning is our last chance to go onshore in Antarctica.  We get out of bed slowly after Brent's voice awakens us.  We notice a slightly foul smell in the air and then realize it is the smell of penguins.

At breakfast we sit next to Hannah, one of the three women living at Port Lockroy from November through March.  They are here for the season curating and maintaining the museum which was a research station on this small island.  She explains that she tried three times (over several years) to land the job.  The application process starts with a series of essays and culminates in a number of practical skills tests including rewiring a lamp, first aid, and shoveling and carrying and/or pushing 50 pounds of sand.  She excuses herself from the breakfast table so that she can take a shower on board ship as they do not have running water on the island.

Our zodiac first takes us to Jougla Point on the island.  On shore we see an amalgamation of whale bones, then walk up the rocks toward the Gentoo penguin colony.

The odor of penguins permeates the air. I'm glad we have rented the boots and waterproof pants we are wearing. There is mud and penguin poo all about. Nonetheless the penguins are endearing. We are supposed to stay 15 feet away from the penguins, but they walk right up to us. Can't help but love them.

There are also birds about - Antartic Shags and Skewa's, often trying to locate an easy meal. Skewa's are somewhat similar to vultures and hawks. They hang around the penguin rookeries looking for a chance to steal eggs or small chicks.

We zodiac over to the museum. The base was established by the British in 1944 and continued in operation until 1964. Once inside we get a glimpse of what life was like for the researchers. Wow!

Iceberg Graveyard

2/4/2018

Last night Brent explained that we would be going through the Lemair Channel at approximately 5am today (Tuesday) and that he would make an announcement at that time.  If we wanted to see the most narrow and scenic channel of our voyage, we should get up.  Or, we could roll over and sleep for another hour until the general wake-up announcement.  We plan to get up.

I sleep right through the announcement, but William catches some of it - and it sounds like there was a change; we can get up to see something or roll over for more sleep.  We're awake, so we get up.

We're in a bay with some interesting glaciers and mountains, but after 15 minutes breakfast calls to us.  After breakfast we learn that during the night the boat started to encounter more ice than expected, so the captain had to reroute the ship.  We will not be going through the Lemair Channel until this evening.

This morning the ship pulls into a bay known as an iceberg graveyard. The winds and waves push icebergs into the bay, but the conditions do not allow them to move out. They remain in the bay until they erode over time. The blue icebergs are phenomenal. Alyssa expertly drives our zodiac through the small chunks of ice (called bergies) around the icebergs and provides information about the area.

But the icebergs are just a part of the fun. There are whales breaching in the bay. Nearby we spot a leopard seal and separately some crabeater seals. And of course, there are penguins. Alyssa wins once again for providing a great zodiac experience.

We don't want our zodiac ride to end, but it must and we return to the ship. During our buffet lunch the ship is moved to Peterman Island.

On Peterman Island we are greeted by chin strap penguins but the majority of the penguins on the island are Gentoo, their red bills giving them away. To our right is a penguin highway, which are trails the penguins walk on in single files to move between their colonies and the ocean where they feed on krill. They hope not to be the food of whales and seals, and usually feed in groups, which improves their chance for survival.

There are also a couple of elephant seal pups sunning themselves on the island. Wonderful!

A Walk on Fast Ice

2/3/2018

It's Monday, January 22nd. At 6am, Excursions Director Brent gently announces that the captain is navigating us into fast ice. Fast ice is ice that is fastened to the shore. The bridge has seen a number of animals and birds. Normal wake-up will be at 7am, but he encourages us to get up. We roll out of bed and head up to the observation deck. The landscape is surreal and the icebergs are inspiring. We see leopard and crabeater seals. There is also an occasional wily penguin which escapes our camera lens.

The captain wedges the ship into the fast ice in Crystal Sound. After breakfast we take a walk out on the ice. It is hard to believe that we are really here, and the landscape adds to our awe.

After our fun on the ice the captain reverses the ship off the ice, turns us around and sets course for the Fish Islands. We zodiac around and there is so much wildlife! We see five killer whales out in the bay, a seal, and several groups of a dozen or so penguins "proposing" in the water.

We land on one of the islands to check out the Gentoo penguin colony. It is delightful to spend time with these birds, but the odor of these colonies is unpleasantly strong. Good thing the penguins are so cute.

Latitude 68 degrees 41 minutes South - January 21st

2/3/2018

The captain and our excursion director Brent, review the ice and weather conditions and determine it is safe to take us even further south in Margarite Bay. Our destination is the Terra Firma Islands, 68 degrees 41 minutes South, 67 degrees 47 minutes West. The ship has never been this far south. The sun rose at 2:25am, but we awaken at 7am as the ship approaches the islands. There are icebergs and small amounts of pack ice floating in the bay. The temperature is 2C and the winds are calm.

After breakfast my brother Dan and I go sea kayaking. This is the first time I've kayaked - what an iconic location and fantastic kayaking partner! The ship has a launching platform which makes it very easy to get in and out of the kayaks. We are out for about 20 minutes when the breeze picks up, so we paddle (into the wind) back to the ship. By the time we arrive the crew has decided to cancel kayaking for the next groups scheduled to go out. We feel lucky to have had the opportunity.

As soon as the kayaks have been put away Brent announces that it is time for the polar plunge. William declares that he will be our official photographer and Dan, Martha did I quickly change into plunging attire. After waiting 15-20 minutes we are at the front of the line. Brent coaches each person prior to their jump and is right there (along with other staff) to help us out. All I can say is da#n! the South Sea is cold and salty! A shot of vodka or hot chocolate is offered once inside the ship. A hot shower back in the cabin is what really warms me up.

During lunch the captain pulls up anchor and we begin our journey north. The scenery and icebergs are magnificent. At the mouth of Margarite Bay we pass Adelaide Island. The mountain peak on the island is ~9,500 feet. That is one of the challenges with all of our photographs, it is hard to convey the scale of what we see in this vast wilderness.

There is a slight wind and the sun is streaming down. It feels nice enough to go outside in a long sleeve shirt for up to 15 minutes - more than enough time to take photos as we pass icebergs. For fun the staff fires up grills on the aft deck for a cookout.

Our 7th Continent - Saturday, January 20th, 2018

2/3/2018

We awaken to calm waters and icebergs all about. The captain skillfully brings is into Marguerite Bay. The Naturalists and other scientists load into zodiacs to explore the area of Red Rock Ridge and come back to the ship with smiles on their faces.

We are bundled up appropriately (we hope) for the -2C (36F) weather conditions. Around 9:15am our zodiac group is called. As our zodiac boat is making its way to the landing site we spot five Type B killer whales swimming together. There are also Minke whales. Amazing! Three of the Naturalists on board are studying whales. They are extremely excited. They go off in their own zodiac and are able to photograph and obtain samples from the spouting whales with their specialized drone.

When we land at Red Rock Ridge William and I officially step onto the seventh continent we have visited. Slowly we climb up the rocky shore to visit the Adelie penguin colony. Truly amazing!

Some people from the group go on a short hike while others concentrate their efforts on penguin watching. I plop myself down on a rock to take in these wonderful birds. The chicks were hatched some time ago and now are almost the same size as the adults. They are close to the time where they will molt their soft baby feathers and grow a new set to take them through the winter.

In the afternoon the ship moves to Stonington Island for a visit to Base E. This is the location of abandoned U.S. and U.K. exploration bases. The U.S. base was used from 1960 to 1975. There is a team of six people from the U.K. Heritage Trust restoring the U.K. Base. We learn about the site and zodiac to the island to have a closer look at the base and the beauty that surrounds it.

On a small zodiac cruise we check out the icebergs. Two of them have seals on them sunning themselves.

Once on the island we first check out the U.K. Base. The restoration team has their work cut out for them. Luckily they are not living in the old base. Believe it or not they are tent camping! Good thing they are only here for ten weeks.

We spend much of our remaining time on the island watching the glacier. As the sun changes so do the colors in it's face. For entertainment it even calves off a small iceberg for us. Delightful!

The Drake Passage

2/3/2018

All of Thursday and half of Friday is spent in the Drake Passage, which is known to be the roughest waters in the world.  We are very lucky and we have a relatively mild crossing, but there is good reason for the furniture to be tied down.

The days are filled with presentations by the naturalists and photographers on staff.  Some of the talks are entertaining, others are more academic, but all are informative.

There are birds (mostly Cape Petrals and Wandering Albatross) that follow in our wake, but otherwise all we see is sea.

Icebergs begin their appearance on Friday.  Our first sighting of an iceberg is at 64 degrees 21 minutes South, 68 degrees 33 minutes West.  Some are huge masses with flat tops (called tabular ice), while others have been sculpted by the wind and sea into interesting art forms.  The icebergs that are blue ice captivate. We learn in one of the Naturalist talks that blue ice contains very little air... the air has been compressed out of the snow over many, many years.

On both days we see the spouts of whales. However the animals are too far in the distance to capture in photographs.

On Friday evening around 11 pm we pass 60 degrees South and enter into the Antarctic circle. Our destination is Marguerite Bay on the Antarctic continent. This location is not frequently visited over the past few years. Most ships stop north of the Antarctic circle, and in fact our ship (the Explorer) hasn't been to Margarita Bay for five years). Sunset this evening is 11:20pm.

Antarctica Here We Come

2/1/2018

The wake up call arrives at 5:45am on Wednesday, January 17th. In a fog I remember......Last night we met our fellow passengers at a reception then had an easy meal at the hotel. We finished packing and put our luggage out before 11pm for the tour company to transfer to the airport.

I roll over for a few more minutes in bed but William jumps up to take a quick shower before we go down for breakfast and to pick up our boarding passes. By 7:30am we are on bus to the airport for our 9:00am charter flight to Ushuaia. There are only six open seats on the flight and William and I are happy to find out one is on the aisle in our row. William quickly claims it as I take the window seat.

Upon arrival in Ushuaia the group is ushered onto buses. We are transported through the city and into Tiera del Fuego National Park to an awaiting an catamaran for lunch and a scenic ride along the Beagle Channel.

The Beagle Channel provides us a first opportunity to see sub-Antarctic birds and sea lions.

At 4:15pm we disembark the catamaran and board the National Geographic Explorer, our ship and home until January 27th along with ~ 150 fellow passengers. We find a well appointed ship with very friendly staff. Our Antarctic outer apparel is waiting for us in the cabin: our parka's (which we will take home with us) and the boots and waterproof pants we have rented.

After an initial briefing and dinner we settle into our cabin, which is larger than the cabins on some of our previous cruises. We fall fast asleep with the knowledge that we have entered the Drake Passage - it is rocking the ship. We're not sure we will need it, but both of us have opted to use the sea sickness patch.