WANDERING WITH WILLIAM
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Trapped!

3/27/2019

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We have an 8:30 am international flight from Porto to Madrid to Chicago. Applying the guidance to arrive three hours before an international flight, we ask our AirbnB host to arrange a driver and pick-up for the airport at 5:15 am.

The driver texts me at 5 am that he's arrived.  By 5:05 am we have our bags loaded in the elevator.  William asks what to do with the apartment keys and I tell him to leave the keys by the TV, as we have done in other places. William firmly closes the apartment door and then we both think about the one time that the door leading out of the building to the street was locked and William used the key to exit.  Sure enough, the solid green door to the street is dead-locked.  We have no way out!

I try to reach the host by calling, texting, and using WhatsApp.  No luck.  I call the driver and explain our situation.  The driver and William try to break the door to the street, jimmy the lock, etc., no luck.  William tries to break the lock to the apartment no luck.

I walk through the building calling the telephone numbers listed on the doors to the businesses in the building.  One woman answers, but doesn't speak English and hangs up on me.  In between I repeatedly try our AirBnB host.

The driver calls the police for us, who contact the fire department.  They will take a little while, but will come.  Occasionally through the door we hear the driver talking on his phone. He calls the owner's cell phone 6-8 times.  Finally the wife of the owner sees the repeated calls and the owner calls back.  The owner jumps in his car and drives the 30 km to the apartment.  The Police arrive and our driver explains things are now under control.   The driver races up a few minutes later, and opens the door to the green door to the street - we're freed!  The driver rushes our bags into the trunk of his car and we're off to the airport.

On the drive we learn of the link between the driver and the owner and why he had the telephone number.   It turns out the driver happened to do business with the owner of the apartment, selling him the paint for the apartment.  The driver thanks us several times for allowing extra time to make our flight.  We thank him for helping us.  He keeps saying he is just happy he could help us.  This is the spirit of the people we met throughout Portugal, helpful and friendly.

We arrive at the airport at 6:20 am.  We leave the driver's fee on his console as he requests, tipping generously.  Once again he thanks us and says he is just so happy he could help.  (Later he sends me a text saying we left way too much money and that he is happy he could help).  We walk into the airport and find that the Iberia check-in counter doesn't open for another 10 minutes.  Wow, with all that has happened this morning we have managed to arrive early!

The rest of our day is anti-climatic.  We use Priority Pass to get into the lounge in the Porto airport.   We have a long distance between our connecting flights in Madrid,  but arrive as they are in the middle of boarding the "B" group.  As we are in the "A" group we scoot to the front of the line then settle into our Economy Plus seats.  The nine hour flight feels like goes by fast - helped by watching four or five movies/shows.

When we arrive in Chicago's International Terminal a little after 2pm we once again have a long walk, this time to Passport Control and to pick up our bags.   In the limo ride back to our home I check the walking app on my phone.  We have walked 2.3 miles today, yet spent most of our time sitting.

​It feels good finishing out our 11 week trip that encompassed four countries and wonderful times with family, old friends and new acquaintances.   Costa Rica was a blast relaxing and having fun with family in natural setting. Columbia is a country of great natural beauty and interesting cities making efforts to become world-class.  We are happy we could share at least a portion of the experience with friends.  Portugal and Spain have their European charms and are counties where we could see spending much more time living in and enjoying.
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Happy Birthday William!

3/26/2019

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Today is William's birthday.  We sleep late and have a relaxing breakfast in the apartment.  Then we are off exploring more of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia.

We start by walking to Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina, another of Porto's churches with beautiful azulejo tiles.  After gazing at the exterior we pop inside for a look.  We have to be quick, the reason the church is open is that mass is about to start.  After the church we stroll toward the Duro river, stopping for a coffee and some people-watching along the way.
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When we arrive near the river we notice a funicular which goes down to the riverside.  Sound like a good idea!  As we walk along the river on the Porto side the sun feels good, offsetting the cool wind.  William picks out a restaurant for lunch and finds a table outside where the wind is blocked and it has an umbrella to provide a little shade.  We start with the olives and bread basket while the kitchen works on William's steak and my whole sea bass.  The restaurant is busy and it gives us time to talk and watch the people and activities on and near the river.  When our meals arrive they are piping hot and quite delicious.  We would like to order dessert, but decide to hold off for now.
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We walk across Ponté Luis I, this time on the lower level, going over to the Vila Nova de Gaia side with all of it's port houses and restaurants.  It provides an opportunity to look across the river at the colorful buildings lining the Porto side.  We walk along, occasionally checking out the dessert section of restaurant menus.  After a good stroll we turn uphill to find different cafes.  We spot one we like and where we can see the some of the cakes and pastries in the glass case up front.  Chocolate cake and glasses of 10 year old tawny port as an accompaniment sounds (and are) perfect.  They are made for each other.  😀
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While we're enjoying dessert I google "cigar stores near me".  El Corte de Ingles, the large Spanish department store, has a cigar section but it is a few kilometers away - all uphill.  No issue, we just order an Uber which drops us off at the front door!  William happily selects 15 Cuban cigars to bring home.

​A light rail stop is right outside the back door of El Corte de Ingles.  We walk over to the stop and with a couple of other tourists decipher how to purchase tickets at the machine.  The tram arrives and we take it across the river to the Aliados stop, just a short walk to the apartment.
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The Douro Valley

3/25/2019

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We have signed up for a small group tour of the Douro Valley.  On this sunny Monday we meet our guide and the rest of the group in front of the McDonalds on Praca da Liberdade at 8:30 am.

On the drive to the Douro Valley we introduce ourselves.  Our guide, Jose, is Portuguese and has lived in Porto for 19 years.  Our fellow tourists are a woman from Seattle who is celebrating her 50th birthday tomorrow, a 30ish couple from Washington D.C., an Italian woman who works at a winery and is also celebrating her birthday tomorrow, and a woman from Austria.  Since William's birthday is tomorrow that makes three out of the eight people in the van with birthdays of March 26th.  How unusual.

Jose provides background information on Portugal, Porto and the Douro Valley as he drives us through the Vinho Verde region. We climb in altitude and pass by Marão Mountain, then it is downhill into the Douro Valley.  The terraces of vines on the hillsides are almost surreal.

Our first winery is in the town of Pinhão.   Jose drives to Quinta da Foz where we are greeted Christian.  The quinta was started in 1872 and belonged to the Cálem group for about 150 years.  It was bought out a few years ago by a private group.  Christian passionately describes the quinta and the wine and port making processes.  They now focus on high-end wines, but also produce port and entry-level wines.  The high-end and port grapes are still crushed by foot.  There are beautiful azulejo tiles in the winery from 1921.
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Following the discussion and tour Christian pours tastes of their entry-level Vinha da Foz white wine and then their Quinta da Foz red.  The red is a field blend, which is many different varietals growing in the field all fermented together.  William smiles because he's always prompting me to mix our Chianti grapes together and then begin the fermentation process.  We're invited to take a small spoon on their super high quality olive oil to clear or palettes then he pours their tawny port.  All are very good, and we are amazed at the prices, the most expensive is $13.50€ - and is the olive oil!  It would be dangerous for me to live near here. Their Reserva and Grand Reserva costs a bit more and have been recognized by several wine critics.  I keep their e-mail address for future reference (Enoturismo@quintadafoz.pt)  ... you never know when it might come in handy.

Our second winery and lunch is a 30 minute drive from Quinta da Foz.  It is amazing how quickly we go up and down in altitude as Jose rounds the curves of the road.  We arrive at Quinta do Bucheiro.  The vineyard and winery have been owned by the same family for three centuries.  The mother of the family has prepared a private lunch for us in the old house while her son in his late 20's acts as the sommelier and server.

We start with a sparkling wine, cheese and sausages.  The creamy vegetable soup is accompanied by Cierós, a dry white wine made from Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, and Viosinho grape varietals.  The main course arrives, a traditional Portuguese dish of pork and diced potatoes baked and/or finished with a delicious olive oil.  The son serves generous pourings of their red wine made from Touriga Nacional grapes.  The dessert is a pudding served with a glass of their classic Moscatel.  A very unique and fun experience with great food and wine as well as fun conversation with the people in our group.
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Following lunch Jose takes us on a short tour of the complex.  There is a chapel which was built centuries ago as well as the owner's homes, the winery and the bottling area.  Some of the wine is also stored here.

Jose drives us back to Pinhão where we board a rabilo boat, the type of vessel originally used to transport port from the Douro Valley to the port houses and caves in Vila Nova de Gaia.  Ours has been outfitted to provide tours on the Douro.  We enjoy the scenery and the story-telling of our crew as well as some snacks and a glass of tawny port during our hour sailing.
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Now very, very full and a little happy from the various wines we've consumed we all pile back into the van.  Most of us doze off for at least part of the 90 minute drive back to Porto (not Jose of course 😊).  We arrive at 5:30 pm.

​There were some less expensive Douro tour options but William and I are very happy with this specialized tour we found through AirBnB Experiences.
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Azulejos, Franesinha, Port and Fado

3/24/2019

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William is our breakfast chef, making scrambled eggs with bacon, sausage and cheese using the basic kitchenette of our apartment.  We relax after breakfast and then begin today's Porto exploration.
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We walk by the beautiful Santo Iidefonso church then make our way to São Bento train station.  Both have magnificent examples of the famous Portuguese blue Azulejo tiles. The church has 11,000 tiles with scenes from the life of Saint Ildefonso and bible scenes on it's facade.  São Bento's 20,000+ tiles inside the station depict Portugal's history.  They were completed between 1905 and 1916 and are in great shape.
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Continuing on we walk to Praca da Liberdade to find the meeting spot for the tour we will take tomorrow. Then the search for a lunch spot begins.  We find Cerevjaria Brasao and are lucky to get a table right away since we do not have a reservation.  I want to try one of Porto's famous Franesinha's.  I order the half size and I am happy that I do, what arrives is more than I can eat.  It is a "sandwich" with bread, ham, sausage, and steak or roast meat, and covered with melted cheese and an egg then a hot thick tomato and beer sauce. OMG!   William selects a steak, which he thoroughly enjoys.
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Luckily we have a little walk back to the apartment to work off some of the food.  A short nap is in order.

We have booked a 6 pm tour and Fado show at Cálem Port Cellar.   We leave the apartment around 4:30 pm for our walk to Vila Nova de Gaia, the area across the Douro River which hosts the port houses.  We wander downhill toward the river then walk across the upper deck of Ponte Luis I, the 1886 bridge that was designed by the Eiffel Group (of Eiffel Tower fame).
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We enjoy the tour of the cellar then settle into our seats for the Fado show.  Glasses of white port and 10 Year Tawny are in front of us, needless to say the tawny is much better.  The 45 minute show involves two guitarists and two singers.  It is very enjoyable, though I think that the selection is of more upbeat songs, not the heart-renching variety.

It is 8:30 pm when we arrive back near the apartment and we're a little hungry.  We sit down at the restaurant across the street only to find out that they are out of beer and the kitchen is closing down.  The waiter suggests a nearby place called Big Bad Bank.  When we sit down at The Big Bad Bank we realize that their appetizers are a little unusual, not what we have in mind, but we just want to have a little something to eat.  We plunge in, ordering the Pigtails, Almond Mole and Cauliflower and the "Al Pastor" Seabass Toquito.  The toquitos's are ok, but loaded with onions.  We learn that pigtails are a delicacy in Porto.   Let's just say that William avoids the dish and I can only down half of it.  Oh well, I tried.   Thank goodness the beer and wine are good!
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Moving from Albufeira to Porto

3/21/2019

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Friday is our last full day in Albufeira.  It's sunny so I take a long walk in the morning.  There's a small cemetery on the road to the marina we've not yet visited so I include it along my route.  I also make the promenades and lookouts over the Atlantic Ocean and Albufeira's beautiful beaches.  Although it is sunny it is windy and only 18C (65F), otherwise I would be walking on the beach.
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Early afternoon we walk to the Square for a snack and beverage on a semi-sunny patio sheltered from the breeze.  Not surprisingly William chooses the shady side of the table and I go for the sunny side.  For dinner we return to Restaurante 56, the first restaurant we dined upon arriving in Albufeira.  The grilled salmon and grilled cod is wonderful.

Saturday we have tickets on the 7:20am Alfa Pendula (AP) train.  We are up early, order an Uber, and arrive at Albufeira-Ferreira a couple of minutes before the Station Master opens up.  Other people trickle in and the small waiting area begins to fill.  We strike up a chat with a couple from Ontario.  They spent 3 weeks here rather than going to Texas and loved it here.  The people, the food and the weather.  They're already planning on returning to Portugal next year.

We settle into our seats on the AP.  This train is newer and nicer than the Euro City (EC) class train we took from Lisbon to to Albufeira.  It is designed so that the train itself tilts, allowing it to run faster on rails designed for slower moving trains.  One side effect is that the train sways a lot.  I find that I cannot read or write on my iPad without feeing motion sickness.  I look out the window at the passing countryside.  I occasionally glance at the information board above the door and the highest speed I observe is 220 kilometers/hr (136 miles/hour).

We arrive in Porto's Campanhã station a little before 1 pm and grab a taxi to our AirBnB.  The apartment is on Rua de Santa Catarina, a major shopping street which we now realize is a pedestrian street so the taxi driver drops us at a cross-street.  We walk two blocks to the apartment then call the AirBnB Host as instructed.  She arranges for the maid to arrive in 30 min and let us in. This is one of the disadvantages of some AirBnB's - waiting for the keys and "check-in."  In our other two Portugal AirBnB's the Host was waiting for us when we arrived.

The apartment is on the third floor of a business building.  The small elevator is just large enough for our two suitcases, William and myself.  The apartment has a great room with a kitchenette on one end, two fairly large bedrooms with queen size beds and a very cramped bathroom with a shower.

We're hungry so William Google's "restaurants near me".  Pedro dos Drangos  is 8 minutes away and is listed as BBQ.  Sounds good!  When we arrive we see that they have two buildings opposite each other with delicious looking rotisserie chickens spinning away.  We grab one of the few open tables and take a look around at what people are eating. At least half have chicken on the table.  While the menu is long, we take a tip from our fellow diners and order a whole chicken which comes with fries.  We also order bread, olives, white wine and pint of beer, which arrive quickly.  The meal comes just a few minutes later.  The chicken is great.  We have to laugh when the bill arrives.  The food plus two rounds of drinks totals 16.60€.  My wine was just 1€ a glass.

Walking around this section of Porto there is a bakery and/or an ice cream shop on every block.  On our way back to the apartment we stop in Confeitaria do Bolháo, a traditional place where mothers bring their children as a special treat.  It reminds me of the family traditions at the Walnut Room in Chicago.  William and I each have a pastry and coffee to finish out our meal and give the maid more time to complete her cleaning before we return.

​After unpacking and resting in the apartment we take a walk around the area in the evening.  People are milling up and down Rua de Santa Catarina doing their shopping or sitting at cafe's.  Very pleasant
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Tavira

3/21/2019

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When we went to Seville we had the opportunity to see a little bit of the town of Tavira but only from the bus window.  Today we catch the 8:58 am train out of Albufeira-Ferreira Station with round-trip Tavira tickets in hand.  We change trains in Faro to continue the journey eastward, arriving in Tavira before 11 am.

We initially follow the crowd headed downhill towards the center and the river, but diverge off their path when we see some interesting buildings.
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Eventually we make our way to Santo Maria Church, the most important church in Tavira.  It was built upon the site of an ancient mosque.  After taking in the exterior we stop for a beverage and bathroom break at "a ver Tavira", the restaurant across the courtyard.  It looks very nice, too bad we aren't hungry!  Then we pay our admittance fee and see the interior of the church and the bell tower.  It is believed that the church was built in the 1200's, right after the city was retaken from the Moors.  Much of the church had to be rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake.
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Across from the church is Tavira Castle, the remnants of the Moorish era.  Some of the walls date back to the Second Century.  It provides a good view of the town and we also enjoy the gardens which have been planted within the castle.
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We walk down from the church and castle toward the River Galã and the center of town.  Then we walk over the Praça da República, a bridge that also dates to Moorish times, but was revised in the 1600's to have more of a Roman look.  There's a number of cafe's and restaurants along the river and we choose the Black Anchor for lunch.

After lunch we meander through the streets taking our time.  We stumble upon Jardim da Alagoa, a small park where people relax and enjoy the sun.  At the top of the triangular park is another church, Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Ajuda our de São Paulo.  I check it out while William enjoys the park.
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There's more to see of Tavira, especially if we take a boat tour of Ria Formosa lagoon, but we've done enough today.  We stroll back over Praça da República and make our way uphill to the train station for our trip back.

Once again we have to transfer trains in Faro.  This time it creates uneasiness.  We are supposed to catch the 5 pm train.  We show one of the railroad employees our tickets and say "Albufeira" and he points us to a close by track.  The platform begins to fill with people and we notice another train pull in and park three tracks away.  It's now past 5 pm.  An announcement is made in Portuguese over the crackling speakers.  More people arrive on our platform while a few people make their way across the tracks to the other train.  William encourages me to find the railroad employee again.  This time he looks at me, says "Albufeira?" and when I nod yes he points me with an urgent gesture to the train three tracks away.  We scramble over to the other train, sit down and are not assured when our fellow passengers can only tell us the train is to Lagos.

​I'm worried.  William is calm.  His strategy is that if the train doesn't take us to Albufeira the worst case is we get a hotel room in Lagos for the night.  A train pulls into the platform where we had been standing.  It takes 10-15 minutes to load the train.  When it starts to pull away in the direction of Albuferia.  I breath one sigh of relief.  Around 5:30 pm our train begins it's journey.  After 10 minutes I am able to use offline Google maps to follow our train track and can see that it passes through Albufeira-Ferreira.  I breath my second sigh of relief, sit back, and relax.  Ah, the adventure of travel.  :-)
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Fun in Faro

3/19/2019

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We Uber to the bus station and buy tickets for the 9:45 am Rapido bus to Faro.  A Rapido is supposed to take 55 minutes while a Local bus takes 90 minutes.  9:45 comes and goes...and goes some more.  Finally the Rapido arrives at 10:15 am.  Hmmm... seems to us that the Rapido takes as long as the Local.

When we arrive in Faro we spot a few pedestrian streets so we  walk through them after we get off the bus, stopping for coffee.

A few blocks further from the Faro bus station we find Jardim Manuel Bivar, a small park near the marina, and just beyond it is Arco da Vila.  The  monumental archway with bell tower was build in the early 19th century on top of the old city walls and gateway.
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Passing through Arco da Vila we find winding brick streets lined with old buildings leading us to the Sé (Cathedral).  Portions of the Cathedral date from the 13th and 14th centuries, while the interior is mostly from the 17th and 18th centuries.  The side alters have a large amount of gold leaf gilding and are remarkable.  We enjoy the church and the small museum then make our way to the bell tower.  The views of Faro from the top are outstanding.
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A small side street leads us to Porta do Sol, a gate in the old city walls.  We're a little surprised when a car comes down the street and squeezes through the narrow opening.  Outside the walls are companies selling boat tours to Rio Formosa National Park.  No boat tour for us today.  We wander around the old city streets.  There's a curious mix of dilapidated, modestly maintained and restored buildings.  Fun!
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​The Museu Arqueologico de Faro is our next stop.  In front there is a statue of Afonso III, who was king of Portugal in 13th century.  The museum is the 16th century convent, Our Lady of the Assumption.  There are some engaging artifacts and pieces from throughout the centuries.  There's even a Roman mosaic of the sea-god Oceanus that was found near the Faro train station in the 1970's, excavated and moved to the museum.
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By now we have worked up a good appetite.  We check out the menus of a couple of nearby restaurants.  We choose Restaurante Vila Adento, grabbing a table outside under an umbrella.  A server quickly brings bread, dips and olives while our waiter takes care of our drink order.  We glance through the menu and select three tapas: chorizo sausage, baked goat cheese in filo dough, and mussels on the half-shell.  Delicious!
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After lunch we have a little over an hour before the next Rapido bus to Albufeira.  We wander around the streets slowly making our way back to Jardim Manuel Bivar.  People are enjoying the park, including two men playing cards on a park bench.
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The 4:30 pm Rapido bus originates in Faro so we leave on time.  By 5:45 pm we are back in our Albufeira apartment.  It was a fun day.
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Hanging around Albufeira

3/18/2019

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Monday we just hang around Albufeira.  In the morning I go for a walk and explore the area north of the Square.  We have been here for three weeks and I've complained a bit to William that I have not been able to find a butcher shop.  Sure enough, I discover a very nice butcher shop now that we are leaving soon!
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The highlight of the day is our late lunch at Pampas Steakhouse.   William orders bbq'd ribs, and I choose a regional Portuguese dish, cataplana.  Like the Spanish paella, cataplana is technically the name of the pot in which the (seafood) dish is made.  In the case of cataplana the pan is made of copper and shaped like two clamshells hinged together with a clamp that allows it to be sealed.  The meals arrive and a good sized bowl is placed in front of me with a side of rice.  The bowl is overflowing with shellfish (mussels, prawns and clams), some chunks of chicken and pork belly all cooked in a tomato broth.  It's messy to eat but wonderful in taste!  Oh, and William also really enjoys his ribs.
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St. Patrick's Day Weekend

3/17/2019

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On Friday we need to put in a new supply of groceries so we walk to InterMarch in the morning.  In the afternoon I take a walk on the beach then meet William at one of the restaurants on the Square for Happy Hour.   As we look about we some signs for St. Patrick's Day and green streamers around some of the bar, but pretty timid.  I order a bottle of sparkling water and a glass of white wine.  I have to laugh when we receive the bill - water costs more than wine.  My wine is 2€, the water is 2.20€ and William is the big spender with his pint costing 2.50€.

Saturday the British have invaded.  In the afternoon we go to one of the local bars to watch Italy play France in the Six Nations Rugby matches.  There are groups of inebriated British men all about.  Bachelor party time!  Some are wearing the give-away green hats from Guinness.  I vacillate between being entertained and annoyed with their antics while I try to watch the match.

Sunday is St. Patrick's Day.   At noon it is 20C (68F) and sunny.  A beautiful day for a walk and Jack's Irish Pub at the Marina seems to be an appropriate destination.  We arrive a little after 1 pm and order a pint of Guinness for William and a Jameson's and Ginger for me.  A few of the other tables are occupied with people wearing green enjoying Guinness and/or a shot of Jameson's. Slanté!
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Service

3/10/2019

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After two weeks we are beginning to be known by the grocery store clerks, waiters and the people on the street hawking restaurants and stores.  They smile at us and say hello.  We try out new spots, but also return to some that are comfortable with good service.

Friday afternoon we return to Downtown Bar on the Square for some afternoon sun, beverages and a chance for William to smoke a Cuban in their outdoor seating.  The waiter greets us, remembering where we are from and what we ordered to drink the last time we were there.

Saturday we walk  a little further, past the Square, up the escalators, and past Praia dos Pescadores to the Terrace Trattoria.  They are new to us, and have incredible Italian food and a wonderful view of the Atlantic.  The waitress is all smiles.

Sunday morning we decide to have breakfast at Sérgio Santos Dias.  The hawker and the server are both are personable and attentive.  When William pulls out his cell phone, they notice and a card with the internet password is provided without having to ask.

So what happened with Sunday afternoon?  I wanted to walk on the beach since the weather is 21 with little wind.  Not surprisingly William does not want to be in that much sunlight.  We walk through the tunnel from the Square to the beach and find a some restaurants with umbrellas and awnings.  William spots one with a lot of awning playing French music and explains to the waiter that all we want is beverages.  The waiter points William from one of the tables he's eyeing to another table and provides a beverages menu.   Ok.  William sits down and I tell him that when I return in 30-35 minutes I'd like a green wine or white wine.  Off I go on my walk.

​When I return William is waiting for me outside of the restaurant area.   Seems that after 20 minutes of trying to get a waiter's attention he has given up.  And he wasn't the only one. The couple next to him also got up, telling the waiter that the service is too slow and another gentleman left without a word.  No real reaction from the waiter.  Is it a matter  of expectations?  The French would sit and relax and talk for a while before the waiter appears, but people from the US and Canada anticipate having a cold one in hand within 10 minutes of sitting down.  Or is it poor service?   Either way, William is not happy.  We walk to the Square and sit down at a restaurant we have not previously tried.   Although the view is not of the Atlantic, a cold one is in William's hand in less than 10 minutes.
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    Hi.  I'm Anne.  I wander around the world with William.


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Photo used under Creative Commons from A Vahanvaty