After some last minute packing, at 6pm William helps me catch a taxi to the airport. The taxi driver takes a route through town, and I gain a wider appreciation for the size and diversity of this city of 6.5 million people.
I must fly to the U.S. to be with family and we spend Saturday doing a few last things on my list of to-do's. We start at Plaza de Armas and the Catedral Metropolitan, a neo-classical cathedral completed around 1800. A stroll through the Plaza de Armas brings us to the Enrique Villalobos sculpture " Al Pueblo Indígea". It eerily commemorates the indigenous people of Chile. On another side of the plaza we find the Museo Histórico Nacional. It's a small but interesting museum covering the history of Chile. Unfortunately our Spanish is not up to a level to be able to get full meaning from the signage. Google translate helps with a few phrases. The Lasterria area is our destination for lunch. We have chosen Chipe Libre - Republica Independiente del Pisco, which not surprisingly is famous for pisco sour's and a more modern menu. William chooses a pisco from Chile while I have one from Peru. Although the server described the pisco rivalry between the countries and the Chilean claim of "the best", we prefer my drink over William's. The home made taro chips are wafer thin and delicious - we ask for a refill before our meals arrive. My short ribs are fantastic and William has the best steak he's ordered in Chile. The restaurant deserves it's positive reputation.
After some last minute packing, at 6pm William helps me catch a taxi to the airport. The taxi driver takes a route through town, and I gain a wider appreciation for the size and diversity of this city of 6.5 million people.
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We have signed up for a wine tour and on Tuesday Mick picks us up at a nearby hotel a little before 10am. As he drives us to the Maipo Valley we learn that he is originally from California and was a semi-pro snowboarder. He's been living in Chile permanently for the past four years and last year he married a Chilean woman. He's a second level sommelier and considering going for third level. Our first winery is Perez Cruz. It's considered a boutique winery in Chile, producing 100,000 cases a year. We have a private tour of the winery with Maria José. They have just started harvesting grapes from their vineyards and we get to see the operation close-up. Maria José is very informative - this is one of the best tours we have ever taken. When we discuss a stage of wine production she will sometimes ask the men and women a technical question and translate their response for us. Some of them even alter their activities to be able to demonstrate for us, such as the man treating the used barrels with sulphur gas. We talk with the Assistant Winemaker as he is supervising a crush. As part of the cellar tour Maria José pulls 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon first from an American Oak barrel and has us taste and discuss. Then we taste the same vintage wine that has been asking in French Oak and discuss. We talk through how their everyday level of wine is aged 60% in American and 40% in French, while their mid-level and premium wines are 100% French. Following the tour we taste two of their wines, the Reserva Cabernet and the Limited Carmenere. The Reserva level is actually their "everyday wine". Normally Carmenere has too much green pepper notes for both of us, but it is not predominant in their wine and it is delicious. We buy a bottle to enjoy at the apartment. Then we are off to Santa Rita Winery which was established in 1880. As we drive Mick discusses the walnuts, fruits and vegetables grown in the area as well as the climate. At Santa Rita have a tasting (actually two 3- oz pours) of the Triple C and their Malbec. I really like the Triple C, which is a blend of Carmenere, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Conch Y Torro is our last winery. This operation is huge with vineyards and wineries in Chile, California and New Zealand. Mick has made reservations for us at their restaurant. We have a good meal on the patio then take their tour along with another 20 English speakers. We visit the grounds, vineyard and cellar, learning the story of the devil while doing three small tastings. Following the tour we meet Mick at the bar within their restaurant for a tasting of a premium wine.
We chat with Mick on wine and a huge range of other topics as he drives us back to Santiago, arriving at 6pm. Terrific day! We spend our first full day in Santiago getting used to the apartment, buying provisions and checking out the area. We have a light lunch at Quijote restaurant along one of the pedestrian streets in downtown. It is about a 8 block walk from the apartment. On our way back we spend some time relaxing in Constitution Square. Saturday we have a longer walk, going to see the Museo Nacional de Historia Natural (the Natural History Museum). Sadly, there are no cafe's open where we can sit down and enjoy a cup of coffee. The museum is okay but we have definitely been through better. On our walk back we find a Cervezeria along Avenida Brazil which we think may become our go-to place if we want something light to eat and a cold beverage. In the evening we use TripAdvisor to identify potential restaurants within walking distance. Palacio del Vino is our first choice. We arrive right as a group of 20 bicyclists are being seated. Hmmm. The owner/maître d/waiter tells us no problem. He is true to his word. Anne selects the four-course tasting menu paired with wines while William chooses to order a steak and pair some cerveza's. The food and beverages are good with some interesting flavorful twists, but like a number of restaurants we try on the mainland, Anne's fish is a bit overlooked. However, it is one of our better meals in mainland Chile. Part of the reason we selected the Santiago apartment was it's proximity to the subway. Sunday is normally a quiet day in South America so we think it should be a good time to learn the subway. It turns out to be quite easy to buy a BiP card, fund it and catch our first subway train to the Bellas Artes station. Our destination is Museo Nacional Bellas Artes, an easy 10 minute walk from the station. We spend about 90 minutes walking through the museum. The architecture is beautiful and we enjoy the sculptures in the main hall. Most of the rest of the museum is unimpressive. Following the Museo we walk toward Patio Bellas Artes. There are a large number of people cycling, running and skateboarding. Some of the streets have been shutdown to facilitate exercising and enjoying the outdoors. We enjoy a late lunch at one of the 20+ restaurants at the Patio, then make our way home via the subway. All-in-all a pleasant day.
We are not as lucky on our flight from Easter Island to Santiago - we do not get an upgrade and all seats on the plane are full. But the movie options keep us entertained and napping also occurs (possibly with snoring). After collecting our bags I step up to the taxi counter within the airport to arrange for our ride to the apartment. We need to show our prepaid ticket when we get to the front of the line. The 13km (8mi) ride of 20 minutes takes us downtown. The apartment is located in a 30 story building with two towers. We stop at the front desk and pick up our key. There's a line waiting for the elevators in our tower and we soon learn why. Two of the three elevators are not working! A woman in front of us says it is particularly bad 8-10am and 6-8pm. We wait 15 minutes for our turn. Our first impression is not favorable. From the photos on the booking site we knew we were renting a small one bedroom apartment, probably similar to what we had in Vancouver last year. When we open the door we see that it is even smaller and more basic. Hmmm.
We unpack, login to wifi, and search for restaurants nearby. We walk ~ 8 blocks toward Plaza de Brazil to Las Vacas Gordas and our spirits are lifted. The busy restaurant specializes in grilled meats and we have decent steak dinners. When we return to the apartment at 9:30pm the wait for the elevator is 5 minutes. I message the apartment manager and let her know we are not pleased with the situation. She quickly responds that the last time she was here two elevators were working and proactively offers a discount for the inconvenience, which she processes the next morning. We watch a movie then turn in for the night. We'll see how we feel about the situation in the morning after we have a chance to shower and try out the kitchen. |
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