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House Hunters International - Cuenca

2/19/2015

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A couple of weeks ago while we were walking through Parque Calderon with Charlie and Elsie we saw a professional film crew.  I asked one of the camera men what they were filming - turns out that they are doing another House Hunters International episode in Cuenca.  Through 2104 there have been a total of 14 House Hunters International episodes filmed in Ecuador covering  Esmeraldas, Manta, Cotacachi, Puerto Cayo (3), Quito(3), Salinas(2), and Cuenca(2).  I am not sure when the new episode(s) will air in 2015, but I hope to watch them.

I am always a little interested in understanding the housing prices and options in the cities and countries we visit.  With a couple of weeks of quiet time and a little inspiration from bumping into the House Hunters crew, I decide to check out some local properties.  I'm accompanied by William and our friend Evelyn, who has lived in Cuenca for over a year.

The first condo is new construction 5 blocks west of the El Centro district.  The new light rail tram will stop less than a block from the building, which will give the option of either walking into El Centro (30 minutes to Parque Calderon) or jumping on the tram (probably 10-15 minutes to the stop closest to Parque Calderon).  We walk through a two bedroom unit on the third floor and then proceed to the penthouse on the fourth floor.  The penthouse also is two bedrooms but it comes complete with two large terraces and the elevator stopping directly in the unit.  The building is nice, but it is in an area of large condo complexes and the pricing seems high.
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The second condo we see is in El Centro and actually is two condo's side-by-side in an older building one block to Parque Calderon.  They are changing the top (fifth) floor from offices to condo's.  The remodeling of the two units is near completion, but still has the option of punching an opening between the units if someone bought both.  However, they are small and have been designed with an upstairs loft bedroom, but there is only one bathroom and it is on the main floor.

The third condo building we see doesn't have any units available for sale - all are under contract.  It is located in El Centro with one entrance on Calle Larga and another on the street facing Rio Tomebamba.  It is about four blocks to Parque Calderon. The building is under construction and the first of the 26 units will start to be delivered in April or May.  We walk through the site with Juan, one of the principles of the construction firm.  We even crawl from one unit to the next by going over the roofs and roof top terraces.  OSHA would cringe.  Juan is very knowledgable and enthusiastic about the properties they have developed and this one (their fifth) in particular.  We ask about the pricing of the units, and his response indicates they are less than the first condo's we saw.  We also generally discuss Juan's next project, which is located a few blocks away.  They are awaiting approval from the city building committee before he can discuss the plan and pricing in detail.  Juan will let us know the details once they have approval.
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All-in-all we have fun and are entertained by our own version of House Hunters International.
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Ambato to Cuenca

2/19/2015

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Carnavale in Ambato has been fun, the experience enhanced by staying at the Roka Plaza hotel.  This small hotel has only six rooms, but I suspect it earns as much or more from the lovely dining room and good-sized conference room.  The king-sized bed in our room has been comfortable.  The staff of the hotel is delightful and after five days they feel a little like family.
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We leave Ambato on Fat Tuesday at 9:30 AM.  The streets are virtually deserted, perhaps everyone is recovering from last night's partying or spending the day with family.  We have heard that the town of Guano is home to skilled rug craftsmen.  Since it is somewhat "on the way" we decide to make a stop, even though we have been warned that it is a little hard to find.  As we are traveling south on 35 we see a sign for Guano.  The small road takes us to the small village of San Isidoro, where we ask directions from the locals two times, not being confident we understood the first set of instructions.

The road between San Isidoro and Guano becomes even smaller and in spots is virtually a dirt road.  It twists and turns with small farms and areas of native vegetation on each side.  The small road dumps out onto a major road about five kilometers from Guano.  If we would have continued south on 35 we would have run into this road to Guano!  Lesson learned, but it certainly is more of an adventure following the backroad.
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The Guano town center has perhaps 30 small stores and several tents near one of the churches.  All seem to be specializing in either leather products or textiles.  We don't find any high quality rugs.  However some children in the town find Burt and William with their super-soakers and buckets of water, a Carnavale tradition in some Ecuadorian towns.  After taking a look at the church exteriors we jump back in the car and leave Guano (via the good road).
A little south of Riobamba we want to stop to see the oldest church in Ecuador which is located in the town of Colta, since it is also "on the way".  We see the cutoff on 35 for Colta and have great views of Chimborazo.  Today there view of the mountain is clear.  Carnavale is in full swing in Colta and we spend 30 minutes trying to find a parking place.  Eventually Burt pulls into a dirt area and Evelyn and I jump out to go grab some photo's.  I'm pleased I am able to get one of the church with Chimborazo in the background.
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After getting a little lost we are back on 35 headed to Cuenca.  Burt has a positive outlook; given our delays he will not have to battle rush hour traffic in Cuenca.  Burt and Evelyn drop us off in front of our apartment at ~ 6:30PM.   Burt has done all the driving on the trip and on a scale of 1 to 10 of adopting Ecuadorian driving habits I think he's now a 7.  Not a crazy Ecuadorian, but he's now passing on the double yellow line around curves, however usually only when he can see the oncoming traffic.  I have greatly enjoyed the trip, but am happy to be "home".  William has mostly recovered from his flu and has the same sentiment.
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Monday of Carnavale in Ambato 

2/19/2015

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The big activity of the day doesn't occur until evening - the night parade, so we sleep a little late and use the late morning and early afternoon to explore a little more of Ambato.  The four of us make our way to Parque Cevallos.  People gather to have their photo's taken in front of the Ambato sign and/or the Fiesta de las Flores y la Frutas clown sign.
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Across the street is the Colegio Bolivar and it's natural history museum.  As we walk through it reminds us of the diverse wildlife in Ecuador and that Ecuador has 1,600+ species of birds(not all are represented).  The museum quality doesn't compare with the New York Natural History Museum nor the Field Museum in Chicago, but is of reasonable quality and the admission fee of $1 makes it a definite value.

We also check out the flower market and the Mercado.  They are comparable to what we see in Cuenca.  Lunch is an almerazo of tasty chicken soup, a plate of rice, potato salad and chicken followed by a little dessert at a cute restaurant near the markets.  This gives us enough time to meander back to the hotel and rest up before the evening parade.
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Once again we have reserved seats in front of the hotel.  We understand that the parade route will be the same as yesterday's parade and it begins at 6PM, which means it should reach the hotel between 7 and 7:30PM.  We take our seats at 6:30PM. The vendors are once again out in full force with food, waters/soda's and trinkets.  They are also selling spray foam, which the crowd uses to coat each other and innocent bystanders.  There are no liquor vendors, though some people buy beers at some of the Tienda's which are open.
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The parade does not reach the hotel until ~ 8:15PM.  Most of the parade floats and dancing groups are the same as yesterday's parade.  However, the floats are lighted.  The crowd has fun.  By 10PM the last group goes by and the parade formally ends.  However the partying in the streets and clubs continues until ~ 1 AM.
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Toro, Toro!

2/19/2015

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There are two bull fights associated with Ambato's Carnavale.  We have tickets for Sunday afternoon.

We catch a taxi to Plaza del Torro (the bull fight ring).  The light rain that started at the end of the parade continues.    I threw a bottle of water and a cheap poncho into my rain jacket pocket before leaving Roka Plaza hotel.  We agreed that I would not try to carry the infamous black cloth bag that seems to go everywhere with me in Ecuador, nor my iPhone.  William has our camera tucked under his jacket and a cheap poncho in one of his pockets. On the way into Plaza del Torro William and I stop to buy an umbrella and an extra poncho.

Evelyn and Burt are in front of us as we go through security into Plaza del Toro, both carrying digital SLR camera's, Burt's with a noticeably long lens.  The security guard stops us - and describes in Spanish that professional camera's are not allowed.  After we try to argue for a while one of the head men arrives.  He explains (in Spanish) that they cannot allow the professional camera's into the facility, smaller camera's are allowed.  This is to protect the professional photographers of the event.  However, he has a solution.  He will keep the three camera's in the security office, then we can go to our seats.  We begrudgingly follow him and leave our camera's behind having received a receipt.  Luckily both Evelyn and Burt carry smaller format camera's and they are still able to photograph the event.  We laugh wondering if we will be filing insurance claims for lost/stolen camera's.

Plaza del Toro is a round structure with concrete bleachers.  Our seats are in the front row across from the chute where the bulls enter the ring.  The rain slows down and stops right about the time of the opening ceremony.  After the crowd sings the national anthem of Ecuador we are ready for the first of seven fights, which is the only one where the toreador is on horseback.  There is still the opportunity to scream olé as supporting toreadors attract the bull with their capes.  25 minutes later we learn first hand that in Ecuador the bulls are killed; in some other countries the animals are injured but then removed from the ring (supposedly to go out to pasture).
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There are four headline matador's who go against the bulls.  Manuel Escribano of Ecuador becomes a favorite.  He is extremely confident, taking what I initially think are outrageous risks such as kneeling in front of charging bulls and turning his back to the bull.  He is featured in two fights.  In the first one he wins, with the bull falling over then being killed.  In the second fight he manages to tame the bull.  The crowd repeatedly shouts "Toro, Toro" and waves their handkerchiefs.  The presiding judge agrees with the crowd and spares the bull's life.

Another bull of the seven is spared his life.  The bull is very strong and full of life.  The headline toreador (with the supporting bull fighters) fails to fatally injured him within the allotted time.  The judge declares him to be spared.  The crowd laughs and enjoys the scene as it takes four bullfighters and other staff 20 minutes to convince the bull to leave the ring go back into the chute, including a failed attempt to lasso him.
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There is a pageantry to the bull fight.  The confidence of some toreador's is remarkable.  There is also a standard process which injures the bull and wears the majority of them down into a state of exhaustion, confusion and bleeding from multiple injuries.  It is interesting to have seen the bullfights once and the toreadors in their outfits are quite appealing :-). However, I won't be running back to see another anytime soon.
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Oh yes -  the three camera's are waiting for us at the security office after the last fight.  In fact, several security guards are pointing us to the office as we exited the stands.  It probably helped that we were the only four gringo's in the crowd.

After the event we go to dinner at Hotel Ambato.  It turns out that most of the bullfight crowd is staying at the hotel and there is a banquet tonight.  Some of the toreadors come into the restaurant to chat.  Manuel Escribano passes by our table and Evelyn reaches out to congratulate him and they shake hands smiling.  
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Sunday Parade in Ambato

2/19/2015

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Sunday morning is the annual Festa de las Flores y de las Flores parade.  The city expects 110,000 visitors this Carnivale and I believe all are watching the parade.  The city is obviously practiced in crowd control for the parade.  Businesses sell seats along the parade route and the police generally do not allow the crowd to walk through the street or encroach upon the parade route.  Some people have been sitting on the sidewalk in front of public buildings since last night to preserve a spot.  As a result of staying at Roka Plaza we have reserved seats(with cushions) for the parade right in front of the hotel. A wonderful benefit.  We sit and watch the vendors and crowd before the start of the parade.
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The food vendors are numerous.  Many are selling a traditional festival sandwich consisting of sweetened figs and cheese on a bun,  Of course there are cotton candy vendors and a few hot dog vendors.  We also see people selling candied apples and chocolate covered strawberries.  The ubiquitous food carts selling corn and potato chips abound along with juice and water vendors.
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The parade route is cleared by multiple waves of police cars and police or national guard units walking shoulder-to-shoulder across the breadth of the street.  Soon the floats, marching bands and dancing groups arrive.  The floats are all made of flowers, fruits or foods.  This is the Ecuadorian equivalent to the US Rose Bowl parade.  Each has one to three beauty queens perched on them waving to the crowd.
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In addition to the floats there are dancing groups.  Several represent other Latin American countries. Throughout the two hour parade the crowd is well-behaved.  There are a group of young men across the street who call out to the beauty queens to throw a kiss.  Virtually all do so.  After the parade we catch a quick lunch at the hotel and rest before heading off to our afternoon adventure of a bull fight.
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Ruta de Cascadas & Puyo

2/19/2015

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Saturday William is feeling a little better and we decide to day-trip outside of Ambato.  Our destination is the town of Puyo via the Ruta de Cascadas, which is reported to have dozens of waterfalls between the town of Banos and Puyo.  Google Maps says it should take 1 hour 15 minutes.  After our experience getting to Black Sheep Inn we are skeptical on Google's timing so we decide that we will drive directly to Puyo and do our sight-seeing on way back.  That will give us a better perspective on timings between sights.

We leave out hotel parking lot a little before 9:30AM.  We snake through small towns slowly moving down in altitude and arrive in Banos about an hour later. The valley we drive along is filled with small farms growing sugar cane, oranges, and other crops.  The Ruta de Cascadas starts in Banos and heads east along the Pastaza
 Valley.  Outside of Banos there are a number of high adventure vendors offering zip lines and cable cars which go over the valley.   I think to myself, maybe a cable car ride on our way back, but the zip lines look a little too adventurous for me.  We see a few waterfalls along the drive including Manto de la Novia (Bride’s Veil), 
but mostly see the rock formations that indicate there is a waterfall there in the wet season.

Our end-point of the town of Puyo arrives around noon, making the drive approximately two and one-half hours.  The scenery has been lush and green, with some great views of the river valley.  As we drive along the temperature turns warmer and more humid - Puyo is known as the gateway to Ecuador's Amazon basin.  It is 3,100 feet in altitude, a definite drop from Banos at ~6,000 feet and Ambato at ~8,200 in the city center.

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Puyo is has a small town square anchored by a Catholic Church.  We make a short stop to take a few photo's then head toward El Jardin for lunch.  The town has Carnivale celebrations underway which makes it hard to reach the restaurant.  Eventually we park, walk through the Carnavale activities and make our way across the footbridge to reach the hotel/restaurant.  The restaurant is in a garden setting and the food is good, though a little expensive by Ecuadorian standards.

We enjoy a relaxed lunch, then get back in the car to go another 5-10 kilometers to the Monkey Sanctuary.   Just as we are leaving Puyo it begins to rain.  When we reach the Monkey Sanctuary it is pouring.  We join some other tourists under the roof of a building at the entrance to the Sanctuary to wait out the rainstorm.  20 minutes goes by with no end of the rain in sight.  Sigh!  We decide we can't wait any longer and will not be able to see the monkeys today.

The rain continues the whole way back to Banos and beyond.  Now we are able to see many small and medium-sized waterfalls.  However, due to the rain the high adventure activities are not in operation.  Our "high adventure" turns into being one of a mile long parade of cars following a loaded down Pilsener cerveza truck as it slowly follows the twisting road climbing back up to Ambato.

As we approach our hotel we see the Ambato Carnavale is in full swing.  Burt is about to pull into the parking lot and we see that the gate is locked. Oh oh.  There is no parking anywhere near the hotel!  Evelyn runs the block down to our hotel and returns with one of the waiters who has a smiling face and a key in hand.  Yeah!

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Exploring Ambato

2/19/2015

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Friday morning William still is not feeling well.  We leave him at the Roka Plaza and Burt, Evelyn and I take off to explore Ambato.   We start at Parque Montalvo which is the city center.

There is a celebration underway to kick off Carnavale, and specifically Fiesta de la Frutas y de las Flores (Festival of the Fruits and Flowers).  Groups representing different Latin countries are singing and dancing, and the various beauty pageant winners are milling through the crowd.  Great fun (and photo opportunities).
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After a little while of people watching we catch a taxi for Parque Provincial de la Familia.  The taxi ride takes 15-20 minutes climbing approximately 1,000 feet to the park which is located on a high ridge overlooking the city.  The park is divided into an active side (ball fields, moto-cross, etc.) and a passive side.  We decide to check out the passive side.  It has an orchard, gardens, a small zoo and an overlook of the city which includes a giant flag of Ecuador.  After a couple of hours of walking around the park we catch a bus back down to the city.  The bus lets us off approximately 6 blocks from Parque Montalvo.  On our walk we stumble across an art museum and decide to explore the small museum and have lunch at the attached restaurant.
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After lunch we explore the area around Parque Montalvo.  On the north side of the park is Inglesia La Catedral, a modern style cathedral constructed after an earthquake destroyed the main church of Ambato in 1949.  A huge mosaic comprised of flowers and fruits is being constructed in front of the Catedral, and there will be a benediction on Sunday morning. Edificio Municipal de Ambato (City Hall) sits on western side of the park.  Evelyn and I explore the interior and are awarded with an opportunity to see the stained glass windows in the Council Chamber as well as views of the park. Museo Casa Del Portal is on the eastern side of the park.  In addition to their normal exhibits they have an exhibit of flowers for the Fiesta.
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After a little rest our destination is Museo Luis Edmundo Martinez Mera.  They are scheduled to have music and an exhibit opening this evening.  We arrive around 6 pm, look around a couple of galleries and learn from the museo director, Francisco, that the remaining rooms will open around 7 or 7:30pm.  He recommends Hotel Ambato around the corner for an early dinner.

We arrive back at the Museo in time for the last couple of songs of a 12 piece classical group.  Then we move into the galleries with the rest of the audience.  There is a very good selection of modern art, certainly better than anything we have seen at the Cuenca Modern Art Museum.  It is extra fun because a few of the artists are standing beside their paintings talking with the attendees.
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Black Sheep Inn & The Route to Ambato

2/19/2015

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Black Sheep Inn, which we selected for the first night of our trip is an ecologically friendly lodge located at an altitude of 10,500 in the Andes.  The lodge provides three vegetarian meals, and we arrived 15 minutes before the family-style dinner.  William didn't feel up to eating so Burt, Evelyn and I sit down to meet some of the other guests and enjoy the dinner.  We start with a soup, then the staff brings out vegetarian stuffed eggplants and cole slaw which are surprisingly tasty.  William was very happy to be sick, so he didn't have to endure this meal!

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After dinner we make our way back to our cabins with private bathroom/shower.  The adjoining cabins are at the highest altitude in the Inn, up a few hundred feet (and many stairs) from the main lodge.  They are rustic and cute, complete with pot-belly stoves for warming the cabin.  The bathrooms are equipped with compost toilets, but have running water for the shower and sink.  A poster is hung near the compost toilet explaining it's use.

We start a fire in the stove then crawl under the multiple layers of blankets.  Lights are out for us by 9:30 PM.

The shower in the morning is hot and feels good.  The view right outside the cabin is outstanding.  We enjoy breakfast in the lodge then explore the property.  I find the gym with homemade weights. Some of us regret that we don't have more time at the Black Sheep Inn, but we want to enjoy the Quilotoa Loop and make our way to Ambato before dinner.

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Along the Loop we stop at Laguna Quilotoa as well as a number of other spots to enjoy the scenery and take photo's.
After lunching on roasted chicken in Latacunga we drive to Ambato and check into Hotel Roka Plaza, our home for the next five nights.  The hotel is delightful, filled with antiques and well decorated.  It has a very nice restaurant, which we try out on our first night.
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Cuenca to Chugchilán, Ecuador

2/18/2015

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Back in October our friends Burt and Evelyn started planning a small trip within Ecuador for Carnavale and we were lucky they agreed to have us join them.   On the Wednesday before Carnavale the four of us depart Cuenca at 7AM for our six night trip.   Our first night we are booked at a lodge in the town of Chugchilán.  Google Maps says the trip is 6 1/2 hours, following E35 north up to the town of Latatunga then turning west to pick up the Quilotoa Loop.  Burt is at the wheel of the 4 wheel drive Jeep Cherokee which has been rented for our adventure, and off we go, thinking we would arrive near our lodge around 3 pm with stops for breakfast, lunch and a couple of gas station bio-breaks.

E35 follows along the Andes Mountains, and the landscape is green and lush as we drive north toward Biblian and Canar, which are towns William and I have previously visited.   We stop at a local restaurant along E35 for breakfast, then are back in the car.  There is a light rain and fog, but after an hour or it clears and we see the top of Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest mountain peak at 6,268 meters (20,564 feet).
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As we approach Riobamba it is lunch time.  We consult TripAdvisor and find there's a restaurant called LuLu's with good reviews and get directions via Google Maps.  We circle around the area and then decide to park and walk believing it must be close.  There is a pack of dogs roaming the street, which we understand is a common comment of travelers in Riobamba.  Alas, we are not able to find LuLu's, but we do see a nice looking hotel with a busy restaurant.  They are able to find a table for the four of us.

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The hotel is Mansion Santa Isabella.  It was built in 1910 and appears to be well preserved/maintained or recently restored. The restaurant is nicely decorated and the almerazo is tasty; the pace of the meal like most in Ecuador is relaxed.  After lunch we take a few turns to find the right route back to E35 and off we go again. The landscape is a patchwork of small farms which go all the way up the mountains.

We drive past Ambato to Latatunga, where we are to take Highway 40 west (part of the Quilotoa Loop).  The Garmin has stopped tracking and providing directions and Google Maps also doesn't work.  It is already well past the time we thought we would arrive near our lodge.  We stop and ask directions six times as we circle around the roads of Latatunga.  Finally we find the right road out of town!  As we pass the first town on the Loop I am quietly guessing we have another hour to the lodge.  Evelyn calls to reconfirm with the lodge that we are on our way, and also to get an idea of the drive time....2 more hours!

The drive along the Quilotoa Loop is gorgeous and the road condition is generally good, however it has many twists and turns.  The sun is going down as we come to a construction detour.  Luckily there are a few locals chatting who tell us where to go for the detour and also that we are getting close to our lodge.  Burt puts the Jeep in 4 wheel drive and we go down a steep dirt detour road and then up the other side to rejoin the main road.  It becomes very rough near the town of Chugchilán.  We press on.  In the dark we spot the sign for Black Sheep Inn.  Good thing we have 4 wheel drive as Burt heads up the steep dirt road to the Inn. It's 6:45 PM and we have arrived; almost 12 hours after we left Cuenca.

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William is the worst for wear as he came down with a flu/stomach issue yesterday and has been sick the whole day.  Burt has had a long day of driving.  Although we enjoyed the scenery and companionship on the drive we are all happy to have arrived.
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Cuenca Cooking Class #2

2/9/2015

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Tuesday I have my second cooking class while we are in Cuenca.  In advance of Mardi Gras the theme is New Orleans.  Interesting, since Ecuadorians are also known for Carnavale.  However, their reputation seems to focus on throwing water or flowers or raw fruit, not on booze, beads and meals like the celebration in the US.

William and our friend Burt have also enrolled in the class.  We are joined by Diane, an expat who has lived in Cuenca for the past three years.  The classes are conducted by Leslie in her home on the edge of the El Centro district.  Leslie moved to Cuenca from Florida 13 years ago when she and her husband (now ex-husband) opened one of the first non-Ecuadorian restaurants in El Centro.  She is now a caterer and conducts cooking classes a few times a month.

After getting acquainted, the four of us settle on stools in front of the kitchen.  I soon realize that this will be a cooking demonstration, not hands-on like my first class at La Warmi.  Leslie has prepped many of the ingredients to allow the next two hours of cooking to look easy.

Leslie starts by prepping the dessert - this woman has the right priorities! Very quickly the ingredients for Bread Pudding are pulled together and allowed to soak for 45 minutes before being placed in the oven.
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Chicken and Sausage Gumbo is the next up.  The roux is the key and it takes three times as long to boil and brown at the altitude.  When the sausage and chicken have been added to the roux it remains on the stove.  While it simmers Leslie moves on to demonstrate Shrimp Remolade, Potato Salad with Green Onion Dressing and Paneed Chicken and Fettuccini.  
Approximately two hours into the class all five dishes are ready.  Leslie presents the food on platters or bowls, pours some wine and the five of us sit down for a delicious meal.  We all leave with recipes, full tummies and smiles on our faces.
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    Hi.  I'm Anne.  I wander around the world with William.


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