Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

It's Sunday and we have booked a half day tour of Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego.  It's sunny and the temperature is 10C (50F) so we opt to go with our lighter coats.  Claudio picks us up at 8:30am and we join a couple from Italy and a couple from Buenos Aires in the nine passenger van.

Claudio easily switches between Spanish and English in his explanations as he drives us through the city.  We learn that the government of Argentina wants to increase the population in Tierra del Fuego and has provided incentives to companies and individuals including reduced taxes and fuel subsidies for relocating here.  Ushuaia has grown from 20,000 people to 80,000 people as a result, with an average age of 20. There are now approximately 100 electronics assembly companies in the area.   We ask about the seasons and learn that the sun typically rises at 10am and sets at 5pm in the winter, while there are 17.5 hours of daylight in summer.  The temperatures range from 2C (36F) in winter to 13C (55F) in summer.  Some winters there is six feet of snow in the park, others just a foot.

We pay a 350 peso (~ $18 USD) per person admission fee at the park entrance.  Claudio drives us through the park explaining the animals and birds who inhabit the park.  He stops at Lake Roca where we get out to view the scenery and to take an hour long hike.  We learn more about the trees (three species in the beech family) and the plants (including wild mushrooms which grow on trees and calafate berries).  At a small bay we stop and watch a family of flightless Steamer Ducks.  During our hike the wind picks up, it clouds over and it begins to lightly rain.  We longingly think of the warm puffy jackets we left back at the apartment.

Back in the van we warm up and Claudio drives us through other areas of the park.  We have a chance to see a Crested Caracara bird.  He discusses the damage created by the introduction of Canadian beavers years ago.  The 50 beavers which were released after an unsuccessful attempt at the fur trade have grown to an estimated 200,000 as there are no natural predators.  Now the government pays a bounty to hunters who shoot the animals, but it is not enough.   It reminds us for the issues we saw in New Zealand with rodents unwittingly introduced to the islands who have caused issues with the kiwi population.

Claudio starts us on another hike. The sun is back out and it is warm - now we are happy with our choice of jackets.  The hike takes us through the brush and trees to the Beagle Channel and the end of Argentina's Route 3 - part of the Pan American Highway.  There are a number of motorcyclists there celebrating their journey.  The gear they have brought along is indicative of the journey, including spare tires and extra gas tanks.

The tour includes lunch, which is served in a large geodesic tent setup in the park.  After lunch Claudio drives us back to the apartment.  We take a siesta then walk to the downtown.  It is almost deserted.  All of the stores are closed.  Sunday was a good choice to enjoy the park!

For dinner we walk to the harbor and have to wait a few minutes for the restaurants which open early.  We choose Volver and walk through their doors promptly at 7pm.  It was established in 1896 and has an array of antiques inside.  Very interesting.  We enjoy excellent sea bass with crab for our entrees.

On our last evening in Ushuaia we dine at Lola's, a wonderful restaurant with a great view.  Later a full moon looms over the mountains.  A perfect night.