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Paella with a Pro

3/13/2019

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We start our adventures Wednesday by walking to Metropol Parasol, much of the walk along Calle San Eloy, a pedestrian street lined with shops and restaurants.  After we reach Calle Martin Villa we spot an old world sweets and bakery shop.  In their window they have chocolate Easter bunnies and eggs as well Spanish Semana Santa (Holy Week) figures with their distinctive cloaks and capirotes (hoods).  The Holy Week processions of men in these cloaks and hoods are a huge part of Seville's culture, so we decide to buy one of the figures for our travel momento shelves.  We'll just have to explain to our visitors this is a Spanish good guy, not a U.S. KKK bad guy.
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As we continue our walk we stumble upon Inglesia de la Anunción, and pop in for a look.  The church is undergoing some restorations, but what we can see is beautiful.

15 minutes later we reach Metropol Parasol (Las Setas De Sevilla).  It was completed in 2011 and claims to be the largest wooden structure in the world at 150 x 70 metres (490 x 230 ft) and a height of 26 metres (85 ft).  It is the form of giant mushrooms ("Las setas" in Spanish).   An elevator can be taken to the top for a small fee.  Unfortunately today it is overrun by middle school groups on a field trip and we don't have the patience to stand in the queue for the elevator.
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We walk a few blocks to St. Peter the Apostle church.  Then we decide to walk to Plaza Nueva.  There are no direct streets and Google offline maps seems to be confused.  We are frustrated in trying to find our way.  We stop for a coffee to relax and possibly get directions.  Our waiter is able to point in the general direction of the plaza, which gives us enough to go on.  After Plaza Nueva we continue on to Torre del Oro.

Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) is a 13th Century Watchtower initially used to control access river access to the city of Seville.  It got it's name from the golden reflection it casts on the river.  It is now a small military museum.
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After we climb to the top of Torre del Oro we find a great spot for lunch near Plaza de Toros, the bullfighting ring.  The tapa of goose pate that melts in our mouths is the highlight.

In the evening we walk to our Paella cooking class at the Mercado de Triana.
Chef Dom greets us, has us wash our hands and put on our aprons.   The long counter has two Paella pans in the center and 13 cutting boards and knives set to the sides.  These are our workstations.  Everyone introduces themselves and on our side we have Michele from Canada, two sisters originally from Zambia now in New Jersey and London, and two brothers from Belarus now living in Toronto and New Jersey.  The two brothers are dating the sisters.

Chef Dom starts us making the Paella, explaining what makes a true Paella Vallenciana (all the rest are good, but just rice dishes).  He teaches us how to easily debone a chicken - including chicken thighs and legs.  We fry the dark meat in the Paella pans while he puts the breasts in the refrigerator for another meal.  Next we prepare the vegetables (artichokes and flat beans), then the garlic, spices, tomato purée, rice and chicken stock are added to the pan.  Chef Dom tells fun stories as we work.
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Paella takes 28 minutes to cook, so it's time to make Sangria.  😊   Once we're sipping Sangria we make the gazpacho, which is just fresh tomatoes, cucumber, green pepper, garlic, EVOO, sherry vinegar and some salt all put in the blender.

Our cutting boards and knives are swept away for washing and replaced by plates and silverware.  The rice in the Paella pans is beginning to make popping noises.  Soon the timer goes off and Chef Dom checks out the Paella, then tips the pan up at almost a 90 degree angle.  Time to eat!
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Glasses are refilled with Sangria and bowls of gazpacho placed in front of us.  The discussion around the counter becomes more fun - especially since the sisters have a habit of talking at the same time and completing each other's sentences.  Everyone laughs. The Paella is dished out, and needless to say it is delicious.

​This was a fun class and a good meal.  We would recommend it to anyone visiting Seville.
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    Hi.  I'm Anne.  I wander around the world with William.


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Photo used under Creative Commons from A Vahanvaty