We have booked a photo safari for Tuesday afternoon. Pablo (Paul) picks us up at 4pm and William and I join two women from Germany in the 4x4 pickup truck. We drive 15 minutes south of town toward the bluffs framing El Calafate's backdrop onto the private ranch Estancia 25 de Mayo. The Estancia was settled in the early 1900's when the Argentine government was encouraging homesteading in the area. The Estancia is huge, comprising 7 km of coastline on Lago Argentino by 30 km deep. It is steppe land with valleys shaped by the glaciers.
We drive up dirt roads and stop for a view back at the city. Paul explains some of the history of the ranch then points out three of the common plants in the area: calafate, conradina (called false rosemary) and paramela.
Back in the 4x4 we bounce our way along the trail catching up to the rest of our Safari caravan, a tour group of 12 from Germany who have crammed into two Land Rovers. We soon catch our first sighting of guanaco. We photograph for a while then continue on. We spot a peacock off in the distance then come upon small groups of guanaco.
The Safari continues up in elevation to a Chenque, a pre-Columbian tomb found in Patagonia. It is believed the body was placed on a hill and a pile of stones placed upon it. A circle of stones was then set around the pile, the wider the circle the more importance is believed of the deceased. It is interesting that this particular Chenque was found by examining the terrain with Google. The wind whips around the hill and the warmer puffy jacket that I am wearing is very welcome.
The Safari continues up in elevation to a Chenque, a pre-Columbian tomb found in Patagonia. It is believed the body was placed on a hill and a pile of stones placed upon it. A circle of stones was then set around the pile, the wider the circle the more importance is believed of the deceased. It is interesting that this particular Chenque was found by examining the terrain with Google. The wind whips around the hill and the warmer puffy jacket that I am wearing is very welcome.
The scenery on the Estancia is incredible. The colors in the hills and valleys changes with each passing cloud and the setting sun.
The Safari retraces our route observing the plants, animals and landscape along the way. During the drive we have a chance to learn about Paul. He is originally from Buenos Aires, but fell in love with El Calafate. During the Argentine economic crisis he moved to Miami and worked at a newspaper for three years. He has lived in El Calafate for five years and has three jobs. He grins as he says none are full time and all are fun. He owns a home and rents out units in it via Airbnb. He drives as a guide with the Estancia two days a week. And lastly he does freelance graphics design. In the winter it is very quiet in El Calafate and it gives him a chance to visit his brother and nephews in the U.S. He seems to be a happy, balanced guy.
The Safari retraces our route observing the plants, animals and landscape along the way. During the drive we have a chance to learn about Paul. He is originally from Buenos Aires, but fell in love with El Calafate. During the Argentine economic crisis he moved to Miami and worked at a newspaper for three years. He has lived in El Calafate for five years and has three jobs. He grins as he says none are full time and all are fun. He owns a home and rents out units in it via Airbnb. He drives as a guide with the Estancia two days a week. And lastly he does freelance graphics design. In the winter it is very quiet in El Calafate and it gives him a chance to visit his brother and nephews in the U.S. He seems to be a happy, balanced guy.
We pull up to a house on a hillside. This was the Estancia owner's home until they moved into town a few years ago. It is now used to serve lunch or dinner to small groups such as ours. Paul and the other drivers lay out appetizers and wine. Then dinner is served - a delicious lamb stew in a bread bowl. It is followed by a rich chocolate mousse. We are all happy and full.
Dinner gives us a chance to talk with the two German women who are our companions. They are visiting Argentina because one woman's daughter is living in Buenos Aires. They appear to be happy to practice their English, which is good because the few phrases of High School German that I remember will not go very far. Sometimes we find common ground using basic Spanish to convey ideas back and forth. Fun!
Following dinner the Safari turns back toward El Calafate . We stop at one last lookout along the way for a view of the city and a view of the hills of the Estancia.
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