At 11:30 on Monday we are scheduled to meet Kathe, the tour guide for "1001 Flavors of Lisbon". We take the Metro to the Martin Moniz station, then walk a few blocks to our meeting point. (Ok, more than a few blocks, but if I would have paid attention to the location details it would have only been a few blocks). We are in the Mouraria area of Lisbon, an area where the immigrants have stettled over the centuries. Kathe arrives and we find out we are the only people on today's tour. Great for us, we now have a private tour!
As we walk to our first restaurant Kathe tells us a little about herself then discusses the area. We pop into a very small restaurant where we have bread, cheese, alheira, wine/beer. Alheira is chicken sausage that became a popular food of Jews and Muslims who settled in the area, both those who forcibly converted to Catholicism and those who didn't. The sausage helped them to fit in as if they were consuming pork sausage and hopefully avoid the Inquisition. The sausage has a more mushy texture than many we've tasted but is very good.
As we walk through Mouraria we talk about azulejos, the famous Portuguese tiles. The early style of tile originated in Moorish Spain and was brought to Portugal in the 15th Century. Portuguese artisans then improved the technique and styles, making it their own. Kathe also discusses the Great Lisbon Earthquake which occurred on All Saints Day in 1755. Half the population was lost, it took one year to clean up and 100 years to rebuild.
As we walk to our first restaurant Kathe tells us a little about herself then discusses the area. We pop into a very small restaurant where we have bread, cheese, alheira, wine/beer. Alheira is chicken sausage that became a popular food of Jews and Muslims who settled in the area, both those who forcibly converted to Catholicism and those who didn't. The sausage helped them to fit in as if they were consuming pork sausage and hopefully avoid the Inquisition. The sausage has a more mushy texture than many we've tasted but is very good.
As we walk through Mouraria we talk about azulejos, the famous Portuguese tiles. The early style of tile originated in Moorish Spain and was brought to Portugal in the 15th Century. Portuguese artisans then improved the technique and styles, making it their own. Kathe also discusses the Great Lisbon Earthquake which occurred on All Saints Day in 1755. Half the population was lost, it took one year to clean up and 100 years to rebuild.
We enter an area of Mouraria where Fado is said to have originated in the brothels of the early 19th Century. In the area there are photographs and paintings on the walls of famous people as well as local residents. Around the corner from the house where Fado is said to have originated we stop for some tapas - white port and tonic cocktail, cod & beans salad, ham & sausage plate, olives, and of course bread. Fun!
We continue the tour walking to the Alfama area. We see the convent of St. Vincent in the distance and the statue of St. Vincent near Miradouro das Portas do Sol - a large terrace looking toward the Tagus River.
Our next stop is again a small, family owner restaurant. Here we have a cup of sparkling "green" wine, cheese, bread, and a chorizo barbecued on a ceramic dish in front of us. Very memorable (and good).
Our next stop is again a small, family owner restaurant. Here we have a cup of sparkling "green" wine, cheese, bread, and a chorizo barbecued on a ceramic dish in front of us. Very memorable (and good).
Less than 100 feet away we stop at an open doorway to a small house. A woman who appears to be in her late 70's is selling shots of Ginjinha, the local liquor made from sour cherries, clear liquor and sugar. Kathe explains that many of the older residents of the area have trouble making ends meet and several sell Ginjinha to tourists and locals to supplement their income. How could we say no? Ginjinha is too sweet for William, but goes down easily for me.
Our last stop is for dessert. Lisbon is famous for Pastel de Nata (custard tart), which can be found everywhere. But Kathe has found Pastel Feijão. It's described as bean cake....which sounds gross. But it is a delicious combination of white beans, grated almonds and sugar. The top is crispy like the caramelized top on creme brûlée. Wow!
It's a little after 4 pm when we make it back to our apartment, tired, full and very happy we signed up for the tour.
Our last stop is for dessert. Lisbon is famous for Pastel de Nata (custard tart), which can be found everywhere. But Kathe has found Pastel Feijão. It's described as bean cake....which sounds gross. But it is a delicious combination of white beans, grated almonds and sugar. The top is crispy like the caramelized top on creme brûlée. Wow!
It's a little after 4 pm when we make it back to our apartment, tired, full and very happy we signed up for the tour.
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