We enjoy the concluding days of this Cuenca trip.

On Sunday we relax in the Airbnb with some coffee and tea then take a taxi to Cafe San Sebas on Parque San Sebastián.  During our 10 minute ride it begins pouring rain the drops off to a pleasant shower.  We dash from the taxi to the restaurant and are pleased to find a table for two on the second floor.  The breakfast is very good and during our meal the rain slows to a light sputter.

We leave Cafe San Sebas, setting the Mercado de Artesianes Rotary as our destination.  It’s a 21 minute walk according to Google Maps.  The streets are glistening due to the rain and are quiet due to the timing, a late Sunday morning.  It’s a perfect time for a stroll.

We start the week wishing Lois, our very good friend, a happy birthday on Sunday.  Although she is thousands of miles away her voice and laugh brings us together.

The expat newsletters have been advertising a Newcomers luncheon on Monday at a restaurant in the neighborhood nicknamed “Gringolandia”.  We decide to see what it’s all about and grab a taxi for a 10 minute, $2 ride.  

There are 50-60 people in attendance, with a few familiar faces in the group.  We grab two seats at a table and the wait staff takes our order. We soon learn that this is the first Newcomers gathering in over a year and that prior to Covid the meetings were held quarterly.   Short presentations are made by approximately 25 people selling products/services or representing service organizations ranging from soup kitchens to pet adoption agencies.  Two-thirds of the presenters are English-speaking expats.  The other third are Cuencano’s who either speak English or have someone speaking for them.  As a result of the presentations and the accompanying handouts we learn of a few items of interest.  The whole meeting (including lunch) is concluded in less than two hours.  

Tuesday afternoon is cribbage time!  It is more of a pick-up group, and there are only five of us this afternoon.  We break into groups of two to a game and three to a game.  As we finish games we rotate players.  William and I each win one of our games during the three hours of play (and talking), a 25% individual success rate.

Wednesday our friends David and JJ have invited us to their condo to make Chinese dumplings from scratch.  We are joined by their friends Ron and Sharon.  We know it could be an interesting afternoon when David starts us out with one of his signature mojitos.  JJ has pre-made the pork filling for us as well as mixed up a large batch dough.  In the background she is whipping up a pot of egg drop soup.  

Friday evening there is another concert of the Cuenca Symphony at Teatro Pumapungo.  We meet up with expat friends who are also in the audience.  This evening we have Patricio Jaramillo as guest conductor and a guest pianist, Cosié Aguirre.  The Symphony starts with a piece from Mozart.  Cosié joins for the second piece, Hayden’s Piano Concert No. 11 in D Major.  She plays with confidence and vigor, receiving a standing ovation at the completion of the piece.  The final piece for the evening is Beethoven’s Symphony Number 8 in F Major.  Once again a very enjoyable evening of good music.
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The last days of Carnival (Monday, Tuesday) leading up to Ash Wednesday are pretty quiet.  They are holidays with government offices, most banks and many businesses closed.  And while there are still people spraying foam for fun, the big partying is over.  We see families out taking walks or hanging around the parks and riverfront.  The traffic has mostly disappeared and the city takes on a very relaxed feel.

This week we return to Cribbage and the Symphony, William does Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy (HBOT) for the first time and we watch the Carnival parade and check out the Azuay Community Theater.

Tuesday afternoon we return to the Coffee Shop Cribbage group for a couple of hours of fun.  The pairings of players are mixed up from our first visit two weeks ago, and we are able to learn more about the lives of the different players.   The conversations often turn to why people first came to Cuenca, where they’ve lived in Cuenca, and where else has been “home”.   The majority of the group rents their apartments/condo’s here, and I find it interesting to learn how often they switch to new places and what drives their decisions to move.  There’s a story or two of acquaintances who made significant improvements in their rental (in one case $18,000) only to have the owner dramatically increase the rent or refuse to renew the lease.  The consensus around the cribbage tables is to try to get the owner to do the improvements before starting a lease or only make small improvements yourself.  Seems like common sense to us.

One of the primary goals for our trip to Cuenca is to see if William can breathe and feel well at the high altitude (2,560 m, 8,400 ft).  He has had trouble in the past with altitude, and after his month in the hospital with Covid in early 2022 we are concerned.

During our first few days we learned that walking uphill is very tiring for William.  We develop a strategy to taxi up into El Centro and then walk downhill to our Airbnb.  This works well, and we continue it during the second week of our stay.  William’s strength is improving - that is until he comes down with a stomach bug.  After a week of over-the-counter medicines, he breaks out the antibiotic we always bring on our trips.  It’s just been two days on the antibiotic, but he is feels much, much better. 

The down-time while William suffers with the stomach bug gives us time to focus on the documentation needed to obtain an Ecuador Professional Visa.  This visa would allow us to come and go as we choose (the tourist visa allows only 90 days) and if we only leave Ecuador for less than 90 days in the first two years after the visa is issued, we can obtain residency.  

A first step in the Professional Visa is documentation from our schools regarding our degrees.  We both graduated with bachelor’s degrees from the same university, so we have obtained official copies of our transcripts, diplomas, and letters explaining that we took classes in-person from the Office of the Registrar.  This year Ecuador instituted an additional requirement of an official letter from the school certifying our studies relate to an international standard (classification) of fields of study.  This proves to be a stumbling block which the Office of the Registrar is not willing to provide.  We’re directed to our school advisory offices.  Anne’s advisory office basically says that they can’t help because the university uses a U.S. classification and not the international standard.  The head advisor for William’s school is more understanding and indicates she will try to help, recognizing that the Office of the Registrar has abandoned his request.  We’ll need to wait until early next week to see if she comes through with a letter.

In early Spring of 2020, we returned to the US from almost three months in Southeast Asia.  Our plan was to spend about six weeks seeing our families and friends, then fly down to Ecuador.  The idea was to have fun in Cuenca and also to see if we were ready to make a base residence in the near future.  There was this new virus called Covid that was starting to cause issues in the world, but we thought it would be all taken care of before our flight to Ecuador in late April.  Oy!  As we all know, Covid had a huge impact on the world and our lives.